The Nuts and Bolts of Train Travel, Part II

When there are absolutely no tickets available through official channels, it's time to become creative. By that I mean baksheesh, also known as a tip or bribe. If you get beyond cultural reluctance to try it, there are practical questions to consider such as to whom and how much. I look for the lowest-ranking person who can provide what I want, starting with the conductor. The lower the rank, the less baksheesh required. I say, "Isn't there some other way to handle this?" or, "Isn't it possible to pay you an extra fee?" These classic expressions are easily understood in almost any country.

The appropriate amount of baksheesh required is always a guess. I consider the cost of the ticket, the standard of living in the country, and how eager I am to get somewhere. I put a small amount of money in one pocket and a back-up amount in another. As the discussion progresses, I flash the money from the first pocket. If that amount is too little, it's ignored or results in a clear, non-verbal signal that I'll have to up the ante. When I pull out the back-up stash, a ticket often materializes.

Whatever the source of your ticket, look for your seat number. If it's not there, look for your name on the passenger list near the proper track. If your name is there, your seat number will be too.You'll find many other passengers searching for their names, squinting at insertions and cross-outs on the list. By the way, the cross-outs include those people who didn't believe it was really necessary to confirm their reservations.

You'll hear periodic announcements over the train station loudspeaker. Chances are, those messages in Portuguese, Bahasa, or Swahili will slip right by you. Before that happens, get some guidance from the ticket clerk. Maybe a station guard will signal you where and when to get moving. Try to find someone going to the same destination you are. If none of that works, watch how others respond when they hear an announcement. If they start moving at about the time your train is due to depart, you better join the crowd.

Even when you board the right train it's not quite time to relax. If you sit in the right seat number but in the wrong car, you may find yourself shunted onto a side track as the rest of the train continues on without you. It happens.

If you'll be aboard long enough to become hungry, ask the conductor whether there's a dining car. If there isn't, stewards sometimes walk the aisles selling sandwiches and drinks. Local vendors may swarm outside your window at each stop, trying to entice you to buy treats. The commercially packaged snacks, soft drinks, bread and fruit they sell are fine. Everything else is pretty high risk in terms of hygiene. A much better alternative is to board with all the ingredients for a great picnic on wheels.

When you're finally underway, the beat of iron wheels clacking rhythmically across junctions in the track becomes mildly hypnotic, calming your mind, recharging you battery, and centering your thoughts. Isn't it time to treat yourself to a train trip? Well, that's it from your Traveler's Tool Kit. Remember. The world is waiting. See it for yourself.