Expeditionary Forces

Rock- and ice-queen extraordinaire, Sue Nott is fast becoming a legend, and at just 34 years old, she still has plenty time to cement her reputation as one of America's foremost mixed-climbing phenoms. Much of her critical acclaim stems from her performances on extremely technical, direct-line approaches that few would attempt. In 1999 she nearly paid the ultimate price in a devastating climbing accident in Colorado when a huge column of ice crushed her, causing massive abdominal injuries. But she was back at it only two months later, and in four years since has knocked off an incredible number of mixed climbing routes and first ascents throughout the world.

The Nott Résumé

• 1989: Began ice-climbing in hometown of Vail, Colorado
• 1990: Topped The Fang (WI +6), a classic Vail ice route
• Completed classic ice routes Acid Howl (1993), The Replicant (1994) , and La Pomme d'Or in British Columbia (1996/2002)
• 1999: Severely injured in ice fall from Seventh Tentacle, Vail
• 2000: Five months after severe injury, completed one new A2/A4 pitch route and attempted another on Fitzroy, Patagonia
• Spent several winters ice climbing in Chamonix, France
• 2001: Completed alpine-style summit of the west ridge of Shivling ("India's Matterhorn"), in the Garhwal Himalaya
• 2002: Summit of the North Face of Les Droites, via a 1,000-meter vertical face that's among the longest, hardest mixed climbs in the Alps
• 2003: First American women to climb the Eiger's North Face and the Croz Spur on the Alps' Grand Jorasses in winter
• 2003: Established new route to the north buttress of Kalanka in India's Garhwal Himalayas
• Numerous top-five finishes in Colorado's Ouray Ice Festival