Chapel Pond Slab

High above the High Peaks foliage

Completing Chapel Pond Slab's route

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Each route has unique challenges and a character all its own. Most first-timers will choose the Empress or Regular Route. The Empress demands concentration on the friction pitch leading up to the base of the buttress and the wide crack splitting the buttress provides sudden exposure. Stepping out into the frequent wind at the top of this crack has unnerved more than one leader.

The black wall pitch at the base of Bob's Knob on the Regular Route is unfashionably steep in the friction climbing world. Fortunately, it is well protected with wired nuts and generally secure despite its improbable look from below. The cave variation (5.6) adds a truly unusual finale to this classic route by increasing the vertigo factor monumentally. Gyrate through the narrowing pod and watch the beauty of the valley recede below. Most will wonder if they really were slab climbing. For full pitch by pitch descriptions consult Don Mellor's Climbing in the Adirondacks, published by Adirondack Mountain Club.

Down and Dirty

For such a wonderful and aesthetic ascent, Chapel Pond Slab features a pair of intricate and nasty descent options. To the north, scramble off from the top of Bob's Knob by a cairn marked trail to a dangerous slot heading down to a forested terrace. From here, either contrive a series of double rope rappels or scramble further toward Chapel Pond itself and a short rappel. In either case, take care and be prepared to improvise with a rappel if things get gnarly. From the top of the Empress it is possible to utilize the south descent gully. This tree-filled gash separates Chapel Pond Slab from the Emperor Slab to the south. A short rappel is normally required at the top and poor decisions further down can bring one into technical territory. Loose rock is a real hazard here as is feeble judgment. Be alert and cautious. Rappel when necessary; fixed slings litter the trees with good reason.

Friction climbing might not gain you that coveted sponsorship or magazine cover shot, but you can still revel in the retro-beauty of a forgotten style. Dig out those painter's pants or camo fatigues and slap a jaunty bandanna atop that melon of yours. Locate the bug dope and those old school wedge-nuts. Chapel Pond Slab is waiting in the wilds of the Adirondack Mountains, willing to make your heart flutter again as you run it out above the belay or admire breathlessly the outrageous aerobatics of peregrine falcons. Friction climbing might have been forgotten, but its thrill is not gone.