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Kayaking in Baja |
Five of us were paddling in the clear, warm light of a sunrise in the Sea of Cortez, off Baja California. We were making a two-mile hop from island to island over a mirrored sea, with terns and ospreys wheeling overhead, the sounds of water dripping from our paddles was the loudest thing we could hear. But suddenly another noise reached us from behind: the unmistakable sound of whales spouting. Lots of whales. As we turned and watched, a pod of 40 or more 20-foot-long pilot whales caught up with us, and then slowed down to match our pace. We paddled with them for a full half-hour, mammals from two worlds joined in transient companionship, until they grew bored with our pathetic pace and left us behind.