The Enchanted Land

Bagpiper at Foundation Day celebration

Slaughtered moose hanging from a tripod in Meat Cove, Cape Breton

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Even though there is much more to see, I'll reluctantly close now with four practical thoughts about traveling to Nova Scotia:

First, avoid the tourist season. Facilities for visitors are a little limited so, during the summer, travelers face a tough choice. If you reserve lodging before you leave home, you lose a lot of freedom. But without reservations a perfect day may be spoiled by a weary search for a vacancy.

The solution? Visit before July first or after Labor Day. Do that and you'll have no trouble finding lodging whenever you're ready to call it a day. Frankly, my favorite time is in October when the leaves burst into brilliant colors.

Second, skip hotels and motels. Most are pretty ordinary and somewhat expensive. Instead, choose a bed & breakfast, a country inn, or a farm home.

They have a lot of character and cost less. Best of all, they give you the opportunity for conversation with friendly local folks.

Third, travel by car. The countryside constantly seduces you to stop to admire, snap a photograph, or take a walk. Bus and train are not options and a camper sharply reduces contact with local people.

Fourth, your itinerary depends on the time you have granted yourself. If you have only a week, fly to Halifax International Airport and start from there. If you have ten days to two weeks, start in Bar Harbor or Portland, Maine, and catch a ferry to Yarmouth.