Expeditionary Forces

He's called the Human Lung and Mr. O2, references to his apparent superhuman ability to excel in the thin-air Death Zone, a feat even more profound since he climbs without supplemental oxygen. Certainly, Ed Viesturs' purist approach and light-and-fast alpine technique have made him one of America's preeminent high-altitude climbers. Confident but without the swagger of other celebrated alpinists, Viesturs is closing in on his goal to summit all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks without the use of bottled oxygen. In spring 2004, he will make a third attempt on Nepal's Annapurna (26,504 feet), the last and perhaps most dangerous on his list. Whether or not he achieves his goal is secondary. As Viesturs puts it, "A successful climb is one that you return from."

The Viesturs Résumé

• 1982: Started guiding for Rainier Mountaineering; has made 182 summits of Mount Rainier (14,410 feet, Washington)
  
  8,000-meter summit bids without supplemental oxygen (successful unless stated otherwise):
• 1989: Kanchenjunga (28,169 feet, Nepal/India)
• 1990: Mount Everest via North Ridge (29,028 feet, Nepal/Tibet)
• 1991: Mount Everest via South Col
• 1992: K2 (28,250 feet, Pakistan/China)
• 1995: Everest via South Summit; Makalu (27,824 feet, Nepal/Tibet); Gasherbrum 1 (26,469 feet, Pakistan/China) and Gasherbrum 2 (26,260 feet, Pakistan/China)
• 1996: Everest IMAX Expedition; Cho Oyu (26,750 feet, Nepal/Tibet)
• 1999: Manaslu (26,626 feet, Nepal); Dhaulagiri (26,810 feet, Nepal)
• 2000: Annapurna (26,504 feet, Nepal) via North Face, first attempt
• 2001: Shishapangma (26,182 feet, Tibet); Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet, Pakistan), first attempt
• 2002: Annapurna East Ridge, second attempt
• 2003: Nanga Parbat; Broad Peak (26,248 feet, Pakistan/China)