Family Fun on the Roof of the World

Exploring the Kathmandu Valley
By Jacqueline Frank
Swayambunath
Swayambunath, also known as "Monkey Temple," west of Kathmandu

Before setting off on your Nepal adventure, don't forget to allow some time in Kathmandhu and the surrounding area. Kathmandhu is a bustling, somewhat polluted capital city, full of temples, shops, and tasty restaurants. The first of several must-see sites is the famous "monkey" temple, Swaymbhunath, situated on a hill to the west.

The painted eye of Buddha on the top of the stupa (round Buddhist shrine) is one of the most recognizable images in all of Asia. Visitors of all ages enjoy the wild monkeys who scamper around the temple complex, sliding down banisters, stealing sunglasses and providing endless amusement for tourists on the long climb to the top. Visit during the early morning, when most Nepalese traditionally make their devotional prayers.

The huge Pashupatinath temple sits amidst a vast, sprawling complex and burial site. This is the most important Hindu temple in the country. Look for the riotous display of vendors selling colorful incense, flowers, jewelry, woodcuts, lamps and bells near the entrance.

Again, plan to visit early in the morning (or at dusk), when the Nepalese go to pray. A short walk away is the Bodnath, or the Great Stupa, the largest in Nepal and one of the largest stupas in the world. The Tibetan New Year (in February) is the most dramatic time to visit the Bodnath, when the entire structure is ringed with lights, and the streets are full of Tibetan and Nepali pilgrims.

Bhaktapur and Patan are two beautifully preserved ancient towns in Nepal, both within a half-hour drive of Kathmandhu. Patan is really a suburb, so if you don't mind the traffic and pollution, even small children can easily bicycle there. Patan's central Durbar Square is the most concentrated temple area in the valley.

The village is also known for its crafts center, with small workrooms where you can watch carpet weaving, metalwork and the carving of wooden toys. You'll also find the best shopping deals here.

Shop owners are delighted to show you their factories. These tours make shopping far more interesting for children, and you'll have a better appreciation for the wood and metal work adorning temples and old buildings around town.

Bhaktapur was once the capital of the Kathmandhu Valley (from the 14th-16th centuries) and has been lovingly restored. It also boasts Durbar Square, a breathtaking site full of large, ancient, carved wooden structures surrounded by colorful peddlers and vendors.

Another area fun for kids is called Potter's Square, where potters squat under verandas and sheds, spinning and throwing clay as their wares dry in the sun.

I've just scratched the surface of what to see and do in Nepal, but hope you get the sense that it's a place where the whole family can have a wonderful time. If you do go, you'll leave wanting to come back for more.


Jackie Frank is a filmmaker and adventure traveler currently residing in Kathmandu, where she is working on a documentary for UNICEF.



Last Updated: 15 Sep 2010
Published: 29 Apr 2002
The details, dates, and prices mentioned in this article were accurate at the time of publication.

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