Exploring Vietnam's Ancient Capital

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Elderly Goddess Pagoda (Thien Mu)
In 1601 Nguyen Hoang had the Elderly Goddess Pagoda built on the Perfumed River, not far from the Tombs of the Kings. This pagoda is classic Vietnamese architecture, and the seven-story Phuoc Duyen Tower, added in 1844, is one of the most important Buddhist sites in central Vietnam.

On every tier of the tower, you will see a different Buddha, and the view from the top is inspiring. Every day at 10:30 in the morning, saffron-robed monks walk the grounds in a ceremonial recession after prayers, and at 4 p.m. the Great Bell is rung. Weighing almost 5,000 pounds, it can be heard miles away, up and down the calm riverbanks. Also on the grounds are six genies guarding the sanctuary, a bronze laughing Buddha, and three statues of Buddhas past, present, and future.

Hon Chen Temple
If you hire a boat to Thien Mu, ask the driver to take you across the river to this famous temple. First, peek into the Imperial Amphitheater where fights were once held between tigers and elephants, then continue to the Hon Chen, or Belvedere Temple. The site is well known for its six carved altars and extensive collections of embroideries, paintings, silver serving dishes, swords, and art from the reign of Minh Mang (1820 to 1840).

Thuan An Beach
Ten miles northwest of Hue, this new resort is popular with Vietnamese tourists, but as of yet undiscovered by the western hoards. Development is planned, but for now it's still an uninterrupted stretch of white sand beach, a relaxing getaway with bungalows and excellent seafood. Regular buses run from Dong Ba bus station in Hue, or a taxi can be hired. Biking there and back in a day is possible as well.

The DMZ
Sixty miles north of Hue is the DMZ, otherwise known during the "American War" as the Demilitarized Zone. After the Geneva Peace Agreement in 1954, the 17th parallel became the dividing line between North and South Vietnam. During the war, American marines established numerous bases in the area in an attempt to cut off the supply line moving up and down the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Some of the longest sieges and fiercest battles of the war were fought here.

Today, it's an area of desolate, scorched earth, where nothing grows due to Agent Orange and napalm saturation bombings. One of the more interesting sights in the area is the Vinh Muoc tunnels, underground passageways where entire villages lived for years to escape the constant attacks. Hiring a guide or joining a tour is advised, since unexploded bombs and landmines make this area very dangerous. Most guides are extremely knowledgeable about the "American War," to the point of describing strategies, details of battles, covert operations, and statistics.

They will take you to battlefields still strewn with shell casings, shrapnel, and thousands of pellets of cordite, the propellant used by much of American artillery. When your guide burns a pellet, you'll smell the scent of the war. Of course the perspective of these young guides is that of a Vietnamese whose parents experienced the war, but you may find it refreshing to hear a viewpoint not influenced by Hollywood.

Bach Ma-Hai Van National Parks
With virgin rainforest covering over 75 percent of the area, these are Vietnam's densest jungles. Peaks along the mountain range reach 4,500 feet, and the area experiences some of the heaviest rainfall in the country. Under the canopy, both tropical and sub-tropical species can be found, including rosewood, cinnamon, 18 species of palm, and 20 species of orchids. In 1996, taxonomists from Hanoi University identified 213 animals and 158 bird species, including pheasant, peacock, the rare Asian Elephant, leopards, leaf monkeys, and gibbons.

Currently only the peaks along the Bach Ma Mountain belt are open to tourists. There are no tour agencies running trips into the park, but the Park Agency will set you up with a guide if you have the appropriate hiking, camping, and cooking gear. A good time to trek is the end of March when the rhododendrons are in bloom. Park headquarters are at Bach Ma (turn off Highway 1 just south of Phu Loc), but a 4WD may be necessary for the last ten miles. Since the region is very isolated, it is advised that you bring plenty of food and water.

Trip Practicalities

Getting There
Nineteen hours south of Hanoi, or 25 hours north of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Hue is a popular stop on the coastal tour. Coming from the north, you will pass through the spectacular Hai Van Pass. If the weather is right, it's difficult to imagine that this beautiful valley filled with pagodas and Japanese flower gardens has often been the flash-point of a nation's long struggle for independence.

Local buses are the most popular mode of travel, with foreigners and locals alike, probably because they are very inexpensive. They can be somewhat uncomfortable, though, especially over long distances when they are jam-packed with passengers. The express buses are faster than the local buses, but they do not offer the same cultural experience. Buses going short distances will leave when they fill up. Tickets can often be purchased on the day of travel at the station. Tourist buses with "hop on, hop off" tickets are also an option, with tickets available from any of the government run tourist agencies.

Trains are more comfortable, but they are also more expensive, and not particularly suited for the impatient. With only one track up and down the coast, trains must stop frequently. They're best for overnight travel. The four classes are soft-seater, hard-seater, hard-sleeper, and soft-sleeper, each progressively higher priced. To give you an idea of the age of the trains, many still have wartime steel window guards and mesh screens, to protect passengers from Molotov cocktails. Book tickets in advance from the station or your hotel.

Guides
Most guides that offer their services are either professionals or students who want to practice their English and earn a little money on the side. They're often knowledgeable and friendly, and can make your tour go much more smoothly. Typical arrangements are for about $10 to $15 dollars a day, plus meal and tip. Guides will often take you to their friends' restaurants or shops and get a commission on what you buy, so don't feel pressured to spend your money outside your arrangement. Knowing what things cost is always helpful, especially with transportation to and from sites. Never pay for transportation at the first place a guide takes you to unless you know the fair market rate.

Getting to the Tombs and Pagodas along the Perfumed River
For about $12, you can hire a dragon boat moored on the east bank of the Perfumed River, just beyond the Phu Xuan bridge, and ride three miles upstream to the tombs, temples, and pagodas. Your hotel most likely will be able to arrange a river taxi. However you go, negotiate the price before you board the boat.