Exploring Vietnam's Ancient Capital

Rush hour on the waterways of Hue

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Each of the 13 Nguyen emperors, except for Bao Dai, who went to France after he abdicated power to the Japanese, is buried in the Valley of the Dead along the Perfumed River. Designed as places of rest and chosen by astrologers, each of the tombs has three parts. One, the emperor is buried in a mound or sepulchre. Two, a nearby building houses personal objects where a funerary tablet is dedicated to his soul. And three, tall monoliths are inscribed with each emperor's imperial deeds and accomplishments. Many of the tombs also have a vast courtyard and stone figures of elephants, saddled horses, and soldiers, as well as civil and military servants, all secluded in vast and mysterious gardens.

Spread about the valley, each tomb is less than a few miles from Hue, and many of them can be visited in a day by boat. Pham Quynh, one of Vietnam's celebrated writers described the tombs as "the patient and inspired work of the artist whose intention was to color the countryside to awaken the awaiting soul." The most impressive and well maintained are the tombs of Tu Duc, Minh Mang, and Khai Dinh, each tranquil reminders of Vietnam's past with their elegant architecture and noble grandeur.

Emperor Tu Duc had the longest reign in the Nguyen Dynasty, dying in 1883 after 35 years on the throne. Built between 1864 and 1867, his tomb includes 50 monuments surrounded by a wall nearly a mile long. He was an expert in eastern philosophy, history, and literature, leaving behind 4,000 verses of poetry. Being a romantic, Tu Doc worked throughout his life to construct a poetical world for his eternal life after death. Architectural elements of his tomb are decorated with poems and verse, all designed to blend with the natural setting of the landscape.

The Nguyen Dynasty reached its height during the reign of Emperor Minh Mang (1820-1840). His tomb was built in the four years after his death. Ten thousand soldiers and artisans worked on the 40 monuments of various sizes and the encompassing oval-shaped wall. A walkway bisects the interior of the complex into two equal halves, which include the Salutation Court, Stele House, Sung An Temple, Minh Lau Pavilion, and the tomb itself in the far back.

Emperor Khai Dinh (1885-1925) ruled Vietnam for 9 years, but his tomb took 11 years to complete. Under his rule, Western culture and influence began to seep into Vietnam; in fact he visited France in 1922. Of all the tombs, Khai Dinh's least resembles oriental architecture. Built of concrete, it has a slate roof, a wrought iron gate, and electric lights. Throughout the interior of the tomb, though, Eastern influences abound. Here you will find colored glass and ceramic mosaics of Vietnamese motifs, with hand-painted ceilings, much like those in western churches, but adorned with dragons and clouds.