Exploring Vietnam's Ancient Capital

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Built by the early 19th-century Nguyen kings, the imperial citadel is fortified much like a French colonial military base. The interior arrangements, though, are built on Chinese architectural principles: a walled city within a walled city within a walled city, each more sacred than the last. Large gates guard the passageways between the Kinh Thanh ("Capital City"), the Hoang Thanh ("Imperial City"), and the innermost Can Thanh ("Forbidden Purple City"), home of the royal family.

Around the compound, surrounded by a moat, 26-foot-high and 65-foot-thick walls, which are made of cement shell filled with earth, enclose the Capital City. Built during the reign of Gia Long to accommodate 24 bastions with over 400 canons, they're topped with massive watchtowers. Guarding the main entrance is the King's Knight Tower, where the Viet Cong flag flew in 1968 on the eve of the Tet Offensive.

Four decorated gates guard the east, west, south, and north entrance to the Capital City. Ngo Mon, the southern, or "Moon Gate" is the most resplendent, topped by a five phoenix watchtower with bright yellow tiles and rich green facade on the inside. Originally built of granite in 1834, it was repaired in 1921 with concrete. At this spot, the emperor used to preside over formal ceremonies.

Going through the Ngo Mon Gate, you enter the Imperial City, and just inside is the Golden Water Bridge. Once reserved for the emperor, it would have been lined with peasants and mandarins as the emperor walked across it to San Dai Trieu Nghi, Esplanade of Great Welcome, where civilians and military dressed in colorful silk robes would "kow tow," or prostrate themselves to the emperor.

The Thai Hoa, or Palace of Supreme Peace, is where the emperor sat on his golden throne while he greeted foreign dignitaries and diplomats. In good condition, the ceiling beams are painted red with a gold inlay and inscribed with Confucian sayings. The roof is carved with dragons and elaborate woodwork.

Next door is the Truong Sanh, the Palace of Longevity, where the emperor would read the classics and relax by the garden. Restoration has not repaired the bullet holes left over from the 1968 Tet Offensive.

Also in the Imperial City are many temples dedicated to emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty. One of the best preserved is the the Mieu, which houses the seven shrines of dynastic emperors as well as monuments for revolutionaries from various historical eras. In front of the temple is the Lam Cac, or Palace of Splendor, with nine dynastic urns, each weighing 5,600 pounds. Completely undamaged in the war, each urn represents one emperor. Cast in 1822 by hundreds of artisans, they're decorated with sky motifs, animals, dragons, mountain scenes, and depictions of everyday life.

Finally, you'll proceed through one of the seven resplendent gates of the last set of walls into the Forbidden Purple City. This is sacred ground, meant only for the emperor, the royal family, their eunuchs and concubines. Inside, you'll pass the Sung Than Cong, or Nine Deities' Cannons, five on one side representing the elements (metal, wood, water, fire, earth) and four opposite representing the seasons.

Sadly, most of this once-beautiful Forbidden City was destroyed in 1968. The main building, the Can Thanh, or Palace of Celestial Perfection, can still be entered, but all that remains of the other main building is one wall now charred and riddled with bullet holes. The royal apartments are nothing more than an empty lot. Renown for its magnificence, this space once held the Can Chanh, the Great Debating Hall and garden where the emperor would meditate. As restoration continues, two small Mandarin palaces have been restored as galleries; here you can sit on the emperor's throne.