Flyrod Purchase Paranoia

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So you want to buy a flyrod but don't know what in the world you're doing? Here's a rundown of all the things you need to know to be better equipped.

The New Rods
Flyrods today fall into three categories: inexpensive, expensive and more expensive. Nostalgic anglers who believe that you got what you paid for in the good old days will be disappointed in today's rods. These days, you get much much more than what you pay for.

Consider this: Most moderate- to expensive-priced rods carry anywhere from a 25-year guarantee to a lifetime warranty. If it breaks, wears out, cracks—even if you sit on it—they will replace the part that broke or supply you with a brand new flyrod.

Today's manufacturing processes have dramatically increased performance in these rods. They are thinner in diameter but stronger and more responsive. The difference in on-the-water quality between a rod costing $160 and one costing $360 is negligible. But the difference between a low-end rod from a discount sporting goods store and a good starter rod can turn your errant casts into more accurate offerings similar to the way crappy golf clubs hamper your game but good sticks have a better sweet spot. Same principle at work here.

For starters, you will probably want a graphite rod. Unless you have a sentimental thing for the days of fiberglass or bamboo, you won't want to endure tennis elbow from casting the heavy fiberglass or if you aren't an excellent caster, you won't want to slow your cast down to match the rhythm of the slower bamboo. Graphite rods create fast, tight casts and handle bigger fish than they should.

Don't buy a $40 rod at one of the big sporting goods stores. That rod will not perform, plain and simple. Many rod companies make starter rods in the $100 to $175 range, which, for beginners, are indistinguishable from the more costly rods. That means you don't have to go plunk down $400 for a Sage just to impress your friends either.

Know Your Needs
Does the aesthetic of the rod mean much to you? If not, you don't want to pay an extra hundred bucks just to have fancier guides or reel seats.

Consider how frequently you fish. If you are only fishing on your one-week getaway to the Catskills, there's no reason to spend all that extra money on a top rod when a moderately-priced rod will do just fine.

What is your skill level? If you are an accomplished caster (and maybe a less accomplished fisher), you might benefit from a top-of-the-line rod.

Will you mostly fish for trout? Bass? Snook? Flyrods are made to handle certain weight lines and certain size or type fish. If you fish for trout, you will need to consider if you will be fishing smaller streams, sizeable rivers or lakes. Then match the length and weight rod to your needs. A 3-5 weight rod in a 7- to 8-foot length is ideal for creeks but to fish big rivers like the Madison or Yellowstone, you would want a heavier rod like a 6 weight rod in a 9-foot length. A better bass rod would take you into the 7 and 8 weight classes.

Try out a flyrod before you buy it. Flyshops will let you take a demo rod outside so you can test it out.

When you test out the rod, look for these things: is the rod fast, medium or slow action? Does the rod "feel" right to you? Does the grip fit your hand? I like to suggest a slow or medium-slow action rod for most beginners.

Ask questions. Get advice. Talk to someone who is a more accomplished flyrodder. Try out his or her rods. Visit the local flyfishing club.

Do you need a two-piece? A three-piece? A four-piece? If you travel much and intend to take your rod along, the multi-piece rods are no longer buggy whips. The ease of carrying a multi-piece rod means you will be fishing more often. I would only buy a four-piece if you plan on backpacking with the rod.

Article © Mark D. Willliams, 2000