Paddling the Zambezi

Follow in the wake of Dr. David Livingstone (I presume), who in 1855 hired natives to paddle his canoe to the brink of mile-wide, 364-foot-high Victoria Falls, billed as the greatest curtain of falling water in the world. Above the falls are miles and miles of tranquil waters inhabited by the mondo game, such as elephants and hippopotami. Canoe trips are a staple of the Lower Zambezi, especially in Mana Pools National Park. Kayaks are typically used upstream from Victoria Falls.

Since water is the magnet that attracts animals in Africa, often the best way to see them up close is on a canoe safari. The excitement of close encounters with crocodiles and hippos in their native element thrills some, terrifies others. The crocodile already carries a ferocious reputation, with its jaws exerting about 3,000 pounds of force, but many mistake the hippo's benign roly-poly appearance for a placid nature. Do not be fooled: the hippo is the most dreaded and aggressive beast on the continent. Any river journey down the Zambezi will be on the lookout for both, and elephants are regular visitors to campsites, along with the occasional lion and leopard lurking in the area.

This trip, either attacking the great rapids or the scary wildlife encounters, is clearly not for the faint of heart, but can be coupled with traditional walking safaris, or the more timid trip to Victoria Falls. The spectacular mile-wide falls, the largest in Africa, are a must see; know that they have spawned a small town catering solely to tourists, with the world famous Vic Falls Hotel, carrying the charms, and flaws, of its colonial heritage. It is here where most rafting/kayaking trips begin.

Practical Matters:

Plan to go in the summer: June through September are the strongest for animal sightings, May and October are less so, but still doable. Trips run from one to ten days. Some canoe/kayak trips are supported by land vehicles, others--necessarily more spartan--are self-sufficient. And on Lake Kariba, formed by a dam on the Lower Zambezi, you can search for wildlife on a houseboat, or even a live-aboard sailing catamaran.

As for what it's going to cost you: vehicle-supported trips have the traditional comfort of mobile tented safaris and similar price tags, $200-$250 per day. Most include an official guide licensed to carry a rifle and take you out on walking safaris while ashore. Self-supported trips are much cheaper--$100 to $150 a day--but you'll be paddling a sluggish, heavily-laden canoe, sleeping on the ground in the open with only a mosquito net, and will not have the official rated guide required to take you on foot more than 50 meters from shore. Plus, all the ice will have melted by the third day, and you'll be forced to drink warm beer.