Climbing Overview: Yosemite National Park

More on Yosemite

Read Royal Robbins' exclusive essay from Yosemite: A Half Century of Dynamic Rock-Climbing ... in which he remembers pioneering an intense new route up the "greatest unclimbed rock wall in North America."

Yosemite National Park: Spring Backpacking

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It's not just the dizzying number of routes on perfect granite walls and domes that earned Yosemite its international reputation among rock jocks. It's the fact that all around you, on every climb, are some of the world's most breathtaking landscapes. Reaching the top of any big wall qualifies as a memorable feat; looking down onto famous waterfalls and massive meadows can push it into the realm of religious experiences.

There are so many amazing climbs that we can hardly scratch the surface here. We'll start you off with a little bit of information on some recommended routes. For additional options and more detail, we suggest you pick up one the guide books listed below.

Special Know-How

While the weather is never totally predictable, you can assume that searing summer temps are going to make the Valley unbearable, and the early spring/late fall chill means the high-elevation Tuolumne is a less-than-ideal option. Summer thunderstorms are sometimes a problem.

A climber who is new to Yosemite should invest a day or two getting used to the unusually smooth, polished granite before committing to a big wall. There aren't many climbs here for beginners, and the surface takes some getting used to.

Some Classic Climbs

Half Dome - Snake Dike
This eight-pitch face climb up one of the park's best-known landmarks ranks among Yosemite's most popular routes—with good reason. Highlights include two waterfalls, a pristine lake, and views of much of the park. From the Valley, it's a six-mile hike to the base, and a nine-mile walk down. Doable in one day, but more enjoyable if you spread it over two.

Royal Arches
With 16 pitches, this route requires a significant time commitment. But it's not too tricky—most sections are in the 5.6-5.7 range (one notable exception is a short, 5.10 traverse). There's a waterfall on one side that sometimes slicks the rock. Views of Half Dome and the Valley are unbeatable.

Manure Pile Buttress - Nutracker
More than just a pretty name, this climb is a sort of best-of platter for anyone hoping to sample everything Yosemite has to offer. The skills you'll summon in the five-pitch adventure include smearing, hand jamming, finger jamming, liebacking, and a few impromptu moves that nobody's gotten around to naming yet.

Sunnyside Bench - Jamcrack
A nice, quick intro to Yosemite crack climbing, this two-pitch, 160-ft. route is packed with opportunities to practice technical skills you don't often use elsewhere. The second pitch is more challenging than the first, but both can be handled by climbers without much crack experience. It's not one of the park's best-known climbs, but it's a great place to start.

El Capitan - The Nose
This is the mother of all big wall climbs, possibly the most famous route in the world. And after spending nearly a week tackling its 39 pitches, you'll know why. Technically, it doesn't require a whole lot of skill (it's rated 5.9). But hauling several days worth of supplies makes it a much greater challenge than the rating would imply. This is an extremely popular climb—expect to wait in line a day or two at the base.

Guidebooks and Guidance

Two guides worth checking out are Big Walls and Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs, both written by Don Reid and published by Chockstone Press. Background reading should include Big Walls: How to Rock Climb by John Long and John Middendorf, Chockstone Press.