The coastal mountains in the St. Elias Range of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park/Preserve, topped by 18,008' Mt. St. Elias, are among the least-visited mountains of their elevation in North America. Mountaineering here is made especially challenging by a stormy weather pattern and an excess of 100 inches of precipitation a year. Unpredictable storms frequently cause delays in transportation to base camp and often force teams to "hunker down" for several days, or to abandon their summit attempt entirely. Many climbs require as much as four weeks for a serious attempt on the summit.
Many mountains in the range are unnamed, and only limited information is available on most routes. Additional information is available in back issues of American Alpine Journal and on United States Geological Survey Maps: Topographical 1:250,000-St. Elias, Icy Bay, Bering Glacier, and Yakutat. There are also 32, 15' maps that cover each of these.
WEATHER: There is limited weather data available on the St. Elias range. It can snow any month of the year at higher elevations and at as low as 6,000 feet during the summer. May can be a wintry month. Overcast days and rain are typical in June and July. July and August are characterized by slushy conditions and high avalanche danger. Severe storms and heavy snowfall may signal the arrival of winter as early as September.
ACCESS: Most climbing routes are accessed via charter boat or float plane out of Yakutat or Canada. Fixed wing aircraft landings are allowed in the park, but helicopter landings and airdrops are prohibited.
SAFETY: Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve does not have a high-altitude rescue team. Because of this, and due to the fact that the area is extremely remote, all climbers in this area must possess the skill, experience, and judgment required to plan and execute a difficult high-altitude climb. Climbing parties should arrange and plan their own back-up, informing the Park Service office of their back-up plans prior to starting the trip.
Climbing parties normally carry either HF, Marine VHF, or radio telephones. The best success has been with either radio telephones or Marine VHF, and local air taxis sometimes have these radios available for rental to climbers.
Bears can be a problem in camps at lower elevations. Camps should be kept clean, and food must be stored properly to avoid attracting bears. All litter, including wands and fixed ropes, must be removed.
Though it is not required, climbers are encouraged to fill out a Park Service Mountaineering Information Sheet, and to stop by or call the Yakutat District Ranger Station before heading into the park/preserve. All climbing expeditions that originate on or traverse onto Canadian soil must secure a permit in advance from the Superintendent, Kluane National Park, Canada. Please note that Kluane National Park has different rules and regulations than Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
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