San Juan Island National Historical Park

P.O. Box 429
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
(360) 378-2240
(360) 378-2902

San Juan Island National Historical Park was created based on an idea: that individuals and nations can resolve their differences peaceably without resorting to violence. This message is conveyed in the spectacular setting of the San Juan Islands, a cluster of more than 170 named islands and islets lying in the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island, British Columbia and Washington State.

On June 15, 1859, an American farmer named Lyman Cutlar shot and killed a Hudson's Bay Company pig rooting in his San Juan Island potato patch. By so doing he nearly started a war between the United States and Great Britian.

However, much more than a pig was involved. For more than 40 years, the two nations had been contending over the Oregon Country, which today comprises Washington, Oregon, Idaho, as well as portions of Montana and Wyoming and the province of British Columbia. On June 15, 1846, the two nations agreed upon the 49th parallel as the boundary. The final sticking point was possession of the San Juan Islands.

Cutlar's act drew the ire of the Hudson's Bay Company, which then compelled U.S. Army Department of Oregon commander Brigadier General William S. Harney to dispatch a company of the 9th U.S. Infantry, under Captain George E. Pickett, to San Juan on July 27. British Columbia Governor James Douglas responded by sending a warship under Royal Navy Captain Geoffrey Phipps Hornby to dislodge Pickett, but to avoid an armed clash if possible.

The two sides faced off on the Cattle Point peninsula for more than two months with the opposing forces growing to nearly 500 U.S. soldiers, plus artillery, and three British warships. When the home governments learned of the crisis, leaders on both sides took positive steps to maintain the peace. The United States dispatched U.S. Army commander Lieutenant General Winfield Scott, who negotiated a reduction of forces with Douglas. The two nations eventually agreed to a joint military occupation of the island until the dispute could be resolved through diplomatic channels. The Americans remained at Cattle Point, at what was to become known as "American Camp," while British Royal Marines established a comfortable camp -- "English Camp" -- on Garrison Bay, 15 miles north on the west side of the island.

The joint occupation ended 12 years later when, on October 21, 1872, Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany, acting as arbitrator, settled the dispute by awarding the San Juan Islands to the United States. So ended the so-called war in which the only casualty was a pig.

A Park of Natural Wonders

San Juan Island National Historical Park is located in the spectacular setting of the San Juan Islands, more than 170 named islands and islets in the Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island, B.C., and the U.S. mainland. Naturally, the park is an excellent place to hike, picnic and view wildlife. From soaring eagles and hawks, to river otters, red fox, black-tailed deer, and European rabbits, the park supports a rich diversity of flora and fauna. Just offshore at American Camp you may see whales, porpoises, seals, and sea lions as well.

Situated on the Pacific Flyway, the San Juan Islands and the surrounding saltwater provide a stopover for many birds, both marine and terrestrial. Over 200 species may be found here all or part of each year. The San Juan Islands are known for bald eagles, and several nesting pairs live in the park. Golden eagles, peregrin falcons, short-eared owls, marbled murrelets, Pacific loons, harlequin ducks, black oystercatchers, pileated woodpeckers, American goldfinch, and skylarks are also part of a long and varied bird list.

Visitation:
Highest in July and August; lowest in December and January.

Operating Hours, Seasons:
Grounds at American and English camps are open from dawn to 11:00 p.m., throughout the year. There is no camping.

American Camp Visitor Center:
Summer (May 30-September 1) - 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., daily.
Fall, Winter, Spring - 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.,(Thursday-Sunday)

Friday Harbor Visitor Center:
Summer - 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., daily
Fall, Winter, Spring - 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., (Monday-Friday)

English Camp Visitor Center:
Summer -- 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., daily.
Fall, Winter, Spring - Closed.

All centers closed Thanksgiving, December 25 and January 1.

Fees, Costs Rates:

There are no fees.

Reservations, Permits:

None are required, except for school groups. for scheduling purposes, school groups should make reservations for site visits and traveling trunk.

Facilities and Opportunities

American Camp -- Is located on the southern tip of the island, about six miles southeast of Friday Harbor. Two historic buildings survive, along with the remains of an earthen gun emplacement (or redoubt). Other building sites are identified, including the locations of the Hudson's Bay Company farm, the old town of San Juan and the American Camp cemetery. Visitor center exhibits focus on archaeology and daily life in both camps. Except for federal holidays, the center is open Thursday through Sunday -- fall, winter and spring, and daily during the summer season. A ranger is on duty to provide information. A self-guiding foot trail, a little more than one mile long, begins in the American Camp parking lot.

English Camp -- Lies on tree-sheltered Garrison Bay, about nine miles northwest of Friday Harbor. Four historic buildings and a small formal garden have been restored. The barracks has an audiovisual program about the Pig War and the joint occupation. Buildings are open daily during the summer season.

Park Headquarters -- Is located in the town of Friday Harbor, at 125 Spring Street. An information desk is open Monday through Friday during the winter months and daily during the summer season, June through September. Exhibits focus on archaeology, the Pig War and joint occupation and frontier army life.

Trails, Roads -- More than eight miles of trail through forest, seashore and prairie have been cut at both sites. The trails are dirt or mowed grass.

Programs, Activities -- Slide program and exhibits are always available. In the summer, there are several weekend special programs.

School Group Educational Programs -- On-site tours are provided for all age groups. the park also has a traveling trunk and resource guide targeted for 4th/5th graders, but adaptable for all grade levels.

Lodging and Camping Facilities -- There are no lodging or camping facilities in the park. Camping facilities, motels and bed and breakfasts are available throughout San Juan Island.

Food, Supplies -- The nearest stores are in Friday Harbor, 6 miles from American Camp and about 9 miles from English Camp.

Other Concessions, NPS-Managed Visitor Facilities and Opportunities -- The Visitor Center bookstores in Friday Harbor and at American Camp are operated by the Northwest Interpretive Association.

Accessibility -- Ninety percent of trails are wheelchair accessible; all restrooms and the Visitor Centers at Friday Harbor and American Camp are accessible. As of this posting a ramp is being planned for the English Camp royal marine barracks.

Special Needs -- Texts of the slide program are available for the sight impaired.

Recommended Activities, Park Use: AMERICAN CAMP

Jakle's Lagoon trail -- Hike along the old roadbed and enjoy the quiet of a Douglas fir canopy. This wooded area shelters deer and many types of birds. (1.5 mile)

Mt. Finlayson trail -- Hike to the top of Mt. Finlayson where you can see Mt. Baker to the east, mt. Rainier to the southeast, the olympic Mountains to the south and British Columbia to the west. (3 mile loop)

South Beach -- Walk along the longest public beach on the island where shore birds abound. During low tides, observe tide pool life along the rocky shoreline toward Grandma's Cove. (2 mile)

Self-guiding trail -- Relive the Pig War along the trail that starts in the Visitor Center parking lot. (1.25 mile)

Walkers are advised to use caution as rabbits have dug many holes in the parade ground and redoubt areas. Stepping in a hole can cause injuries.

Recommended Activities, Park Use: ENGLISH CAMP

Bell Point trail -- Walk the mile-long fairly level trail to Bell Point for a view of Westcott Bay. If you like to harvest shellfish, check with the park ranger at the visitor center for locations, daily limits and red tide warnings. (2 mile loop)

Young Hill trail -- Hike the fairly steep trail up 650 feet to the top of Young Hill for a panoramic view of the island's northwest corner. The English Camp cemetery is along the way, holding the remains of six Royal Marines. (1.25 mile)

English Formal Garden -- The garden lies between the officers' quarters sites and the English camp parade ground. The camp's second commanding officer had it built for his family to remind them of home.

Campfires are not allowed at English Camp.

Basic Visit Recommendations:
Allow one to two hours at each site to explore the Visitor Centers and walk the trails.

Special Events, Programs:
On Saturday afternoons during the summer season, Park Rangers and volunteers demonstrate pioneer and military skills and crafts wearing period clothing. Evening programs are featured on Saturdays. Ranger guided walks are scheduled Thursday through Sunday at both sites during the summer season.

Climate, Recommended Clothing:
Summer is sunny with scattered showers; high-low 85-62 degrees F.; shorts or trousers, T-shirt, hat, and sunscreen; bring a raincoat. Winter is cloudy and cold; high-low 45-20 degrees F.; wear coat (and raincoat) and hat.

Adjacent Visitor Attractions:
The San Juan Island Historical society, located in Friday Harbor, features historical artifacts and living history exhibits. The Whale Museum, also located in Friday Harbor, features exhibitions and programming on whales and other sea mammals throughout the year, and Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve. For more information about the Hudson's Bay Company in the Oregon country; visit Fort Vancouver National Historic Site.

Additional Information:
Recorded information (off-hours): (360) 378-2240. To request specific information, please call (360) 378-2902 or (360) 378-2240 (during business hours, Monday-Friday).

Directions

Take Interstate-5 north to Washington State Route 20 West to Anacortes; follow the Washington State Ferry signs in Anacortes 6 miles to the ferry dock.

By Water: Washington State Ferries (from Anacortes and Sidney, British Columbia); Victoria Clipper (from Seattle).
By Air: To Friday Harbor via Harbor Airlines; Kenmore Air; or West Isle Air
To Park: Private vehicle, car rental in Friday Harbor.
In Park: Walking tours only.