California Wildlife Refuges

752 County Rd. 99W
Willows, CA 95988
(530) 934-2801
24-hour general information line:(530) 934-7774
(waterfowl counts, general information, and special events)

Although hard to imagine today, Sacramento River water historically flooded about 5-million acres in the northern end of California's 400-mile-long Central Valley. The enormous wetlands were a bird paradise. Pronghorn, elk, and grizzly bears were common.

That was before 1938 and the Shasta Dam, one of the world's largest concrete dams standing 600 feet high with a 2/3-mile girth and impounding enough water to form 46-mile Shasta Lake (the size of Boston).

Even today, over 40 percent of the waterfowl in the Pacific Flyway comes to the Sacramento Valley to winter. The six refuges and conservation easements in the Sacramento NWR Complex, 50 miles north of Sacramento, are largely responsible for meeting the needs of both the wintering waterfowl and many other migratory birds that pass through each season.

But, as Complex Manager Gary Kramer points out, the drastic decrease in natural wetlands makes intense management of the refuges imperative.

Shasta Dam provided not only flood control and electric generation but also water for irrigation. Realizing that row crops did not do well in the heavy clay soil, farmers took advantage of the soil's water-holding capacity and turned to rice growing.

Refuge establishment then became not just a concern for wildlife preservation but a desire by rice farmers for refuges to lure waterfowl away from their rice fields to rice grown in the refuge."Lots of rice was grown in the refuge at great expense for the birds," says Kramer, who explains that 10,000 acres were grown by the refuge staff at first.

Later commercial growers left a portion of the crop in the field, and finally, by 1990, rice growing on the refuge was stopped altogether. As long as there is no depredation of rice on surrounding farms, Kramer says there will be no rice grown on the refuges.

The rice industry, he adds, seems to have solved its problem. Rice that stands erect in flooded fields keeps ducks away because the water below is hidden by the growth above. But if the wind blows the rice down, says Kramer, in go the ducks.

The industry responded by developing rice that has short, stiff stems so that the plants no longer blow over. It also went a step further by developing rice that requires a growing season of 90 days rather than 120. Now rice can be harvested before the wintering birds arrive.

Established in 1937, Sacramento NWR is the largest and most visited in the complex and is also the site of the complex headquarters for all six refuges. Both Colusa and Sutter NWRs were established in 1945, Delevan NWR in 1962, Butte Sink NWR in 1980, and Sacramento River NWR in 1989.

The total acreage of the refuges is 38,500; separate conservation easements on private land increase the complex total to over 59,000 acres.

"Almost unparalleled in North America," is how Wildbird describes the birding and photography opportunities at the refuge complex.

In November and December, snow, Ross', White-fronted, and Canada geese peak at 400,000 or more, and duck numbers climb to 2 million or more! Pintails, mallards, widgeon, and northern shoveler are common.

Between August and October and February and April, shorebirds are at their peaks with thousands of long-billed dowitchers, dunlin, sandpipers, and killdeer among them. White pelicans are present all year, black-crowned night herons winter by the hundreds, and white-fronted ibis are greatest at Colusa and Delevan.

Water hibiscus, a rarity in California, grows at Sutter NWR. And Sacramento River NWR is a stronghold for the rare or declining giant garter snake, willow flycatcher, Swainson's hawk, western pond turtle, and peregrine falcon.

The only big game mammal found on the complex refuges is blacktail deer, a subspecies of mule deer.

Water is vital to the management of the permanent ponds and seasonally flooded areas of the refuge complex, but average rainfall is only 18 inches in a year making the refuges as dependent on irrigation water as are the rice growers.

But water supply was erratic at best. In addition, agriculturists were favored over wildlife in the allocation of water. To make matters worse, water deliveries to the refuges had to be cut off during winter months to allow for the maintenance and cleaning of the canal system. During droughts when water was scarce, refuges got none.

Long-hoped-for relief was finally promised, however, in 1992, when the landmark Central Valley Project Improvement Act ordered that enough water be delivered to satisfy refuge needs on a year-round basis.

The U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, manager of the huge water system of the Central Valley Project and the allocator of who gets water, began the pre-construction process for modifying the delivery system that needs to be put in place. It has released the draft environmental assessments for a new multi-million dollar refuge water supply project.

When the new water delivery system is installed, incremental increases of water are planned to reach the so-called optimum habitat-management level by the year 2002.

Wildlife viewing at Sacramento NWR can be done from a 6-mile auto tour route and a 2-mile trail system. Colusa NWR has a 3-mile tour route and a 1.1-mile walking trail. The 3/4-mile trail at Sacramento River NWR is equipped with viewing platforms. Delevan and Sutter NWRs have no public accommodations, although wildlife observation is possible from the public roads adjacent to or through them. A deed restriction prohibits public access to Butte Sink NWR.

Seasonal hunting of ducks, geese, coots, snipe, and pheasants is permitted on portions of Sacramento, Delevan, Colusa, and Sutter NWRs during selected days of the week. Hunters, however, are not permitted to shoot Canada geese to avoid losses of the threatened Aleutian Canada goose, a small bird that is one of 11 recognized subspecies of the Canada goose.

Over 21,000 hunters go to the four refuges annually. Each year another 72,000 or more people travel the tour routes and trails at Sacramento, Sacramento River, and Colusa NWRs.

The complex Visitor Center is located in the headquarters building at Sacramento NWR, where Manager Kramer and his maintenance staff developed from scratch a creative wetland entry way that attracts birds and other wildlife with native plantings and through which all visitors pass to enter the Visitor Center.

The center also has a retail shop that sells books and other items. The shop is a satellite operation of the San Francisco Bay Wildlife Society, the fund-raising cooperating association for the San Francisco Bay NWR.

Outdoor Recreation Planner Denise Dachner looks forward to having a Sacramento complex association so that all of the shop's profits can be plowed back into education and interpretive projects at the refuge.

Environmental education space is high on her wish list, too. Over 3000 students and others participate annually in the environmental education and Watchable Wildlife programs that Dachner conducts. Discovery Pack is a popular aid for educators to explore the 2-mile Wetland Walk, which begins at the Visitor Center, with species lists, hand lens, dip net, water tray, and bug box.

Not having adequate space for environmental education sessions and no prospect for the federal funding that would be needed to provide it is but one sign of the fiscal distress of the refuge system, forcing staffs to make fund solicitations from outside sources another of their tasks.

Kramer says that it if it were not for money contributed by Ducks Unlimited and California Waterfowl Association, much of the most recent levee construction to develop wetland habitat would not have been possible.

National Audubon Society, Pacific Bell, and Pacific Gas and Electric were among the contributors to pay for a needed new wildlife viewing platform. To provide bunkhouse space for researchers and others, two maintenance workers at Sacramento NWR completely remodeled the interiors of two hand-me-down trailers from the U.S. Forest Service.

Kramer is intensely proud of his staff. "They are one of our great strengths and very professional," he declares, adding that their capabilities make him more of a conductor than anything else.

Faith in his staff helps him to pursue his free-lance writing and professional photography, which has taken him to South America and Africa a dozen times on assignments covering natural history, hunting, and fishing topics.

The prospect of assured water for Central Valley NWRs is, however, exciting news for refuge personnel, who are helpless to carry out the refuge complex mission without it. In drought years especially, when refuges had no priority, they have seen the serious impact of still further waterfowl declines.

With 60 percent of the flyway's waterfowl dependent on the remaining remnant wetlands and other resident and migrant wildlife just as vulnerable, the Sacramento NWR complex is a striking example of the vital role refuges render.

Unusual Refuge Gets Innovative Project

Prune and walnut orchards are an unusual part of the Sacramento River NWR, and now it can boast that it is being served by a state-of-the-art pumping station. Established in 1989, the refuge is intended to eventually restore and preserve riparian habitat for wildlife along 100 miles of the river. The role of the refuge is crucial. Less than two percent of bordering forest remains. According to a state study, 236 wildlife species, including the state endangered yellow-billed cuckoo, use the forested edge where it still exists .

Through an innovative arrangement with the refuge, The Nature Conservancy is restoring riparian woodlands with native plant species. The cost is borne by funds generated by the orchards and croplands that are also managed by TNC. Refuge Complex Manager Kramer says that, as river border land is acquired, only marginal orchards and farms are retired from use.

The managed wetlands occupying the Llano Seco Unit of the refuge depend on pumping for their water supply. When it was realized that the old unscreened 1910 pump could be devouring steelhead and chinook salmon, water flow to the refuge was stopped, but two private ranches continued to be served by the needed water. At times the entire flow of the tributary stream in which the old pump was installed would be diverted, forcing river water to flow upstream and confusing the migratory salmon that used the stream for spawning.

By the time Ducks Unlimited had completed the project that it both inspired and managed, $4.9 million had been spent on a modern pumping station outfitted with fish screens and relocated from the tributary to the Sacramento River. A June 1997 dedication ceremony brought together the federal, state, and private partners who shared in the cost.

"A prime example of what can be accomplished when parties come together at the grassroots level," says John Garamendi, Interior Deputy Secretary. "Water will continue to be supplied for ranching and farming activities but will now be much more 'friendly' to fish and wildlife." In addition to their financial contributions, The M&T; Chico Ranch and Parrott Investment Company's Llano Seco Rancho agreed to dedicate a minimum instream flow on another stream for the benefit of wildlife.

One of the most profitable grain and livestock ranches in California, Llano Seco Rancho was divided in 1991 into subunits managed by the refuge, the state, The Nature Conservancy, and the owner.

One of the subunits owned by the refuge is where a public use area was established early in 1996 with the financial and physical help of several local organizations and companies. Two multilevel viewing platforms, a walking trail, and interpretive panels provide opportunities both to observe wildlife as well to learn about the historic Llano Seco Rancho. The rest of the refuge will remain closed at least until a management plan is developed.

In dedicating the new facilities, Kramer hoped for many future visitors. The 15,000 who came in 1996 alone were no disappointment.

Directions:

To reach Sacramento NWR from I-5, north on I-5 from Sacramento to Norman Road exit, east on Norman Road, north (left) on County Road 99W to refuge and Visitor Center on right. For Colusa NWR, exit I-5 at CA-20, east on CA-20 toward Colusa to refuge on right. To Sacramento River NWR public use area, I-5 to Willows exit, east on CA-162, north (left) on CA-45 to Ordbend, east (right) on Ord Ferry Road approximately 5 miles to right turn on 7-Mile Lane, south 2 miles to refuge entrance on right.