Ballard and Walker: PCT Thru-Hikers

Waiting for the sun

Pacific Crest Trail

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September 11, 2000—Day 127—Mile 2471—Skykomish, Washington—Duffy's Diary: Everyone says that the trail here in the Evergreen state goes through some of the most scenic wilderness you'll see along the entire PCT. Long before we had hiked a step we had heard that the beauty of Washington's Cascades was comparable to that of the Sierra Nevada (and you may remember how much we bragged about THOSE Mountains). Maybe the Cascade lovers are right, but as yet we have seen little supporting evidence. Actually, here in Washington we haven't seen much of anything besides clouds—as well as fog, drizzle, rain, hail, snow, and the drip-drip of water off our jacket hoods.

Almost from the very moment that we stepped off the Bridge of the Gods on to the north side of the Columbia River and into Washington, we have experienced foul weather. I guess in a sense we were due. For nearly four months and 2100 miles we experienced less than a half-dozen hours of precipitation. Some hail and a few thunderstorms in the Sierra, which were always followed by bright, drying sun. That was about it. Given the PCT's historical penchant for throwing meteorological badness on hikers, this has been a most blessed run. Well, now the EverWet State is making up for our blissful summer drought, big time.

We started Section I from White Pass, a small resupply stop, on September 2 in the midst of light drizzle. As we trudged up the wide, muddy footpath, trenched with hoof marks, the drizzle escalated into a shower. The trail quickly began to degenerate. After about 45 minutes of rain, the mud and puddles gave way to a brown, frothy torrent, a river of water racing down the trail. We initially tried to step around the river but eventually had no choice but to plow forward upstream, wincing as icy water repeatedly enveloped our toes.

After several hours of this misery we were cursing our wet feet, bitterly cold hands, and decision to leave town in the first place.

Now, over a week later, our curses persist. [MORE. . .]

Duffy and Angela are losing weight! Check out what gear they've dropped. Also see their original gear lists.