Top Colorado Trout Streams

Fishing among the piedras of the Piedra

Practicalities

Topos and other maps: USGS Allison, Chimney Rock, Devil Mountain, Bear Mountain, Oakbrush Ridge, Cimarrona Peak, USGS San Juan National Forest

Location: Southwestern Colorado east of Durango

Description: Canyon (and meadow) freestone river with nice pools, pocket water, and plenty of structure.

Directions: Go west from Pagosa Springs 22 miles on State Highway 160 where the river crosses the road.

Lodging, camping: Anglers will find campgrounds at East and West Fork just north of Highway 160. There are primitive campgrounds along the banks of the middle section of the Piedra, at First Fork Road at Piedra Bridge. There are no motels within 15 miles of the Piedra. Best bet is to stay in either Durango or Pagosa Springs. In Pagosa, Oak Ridge Best Western (970-264-4173), Spring Inn (800-832-5523), and The Spa Motel (800-225-0934). In Durango, the Strater Hotel (800-227-4431), Durango Inn Best Western (970-247-3251), Gable House B & B (970-247-4982), and Siesta Motel (970-247-0741).

Accesses: Largely a hike-in stream, the Piedra has two gravel road accesses from both the east and west sides. The east side road runs upstream for twelve miles. Several trails reach the river from the road.

Season: Fishable year-round but best from summer to late fall. Water can become murky easily. Tackle: 8- 9-foot, 4- to 6-weight outfit. Great place for a multi-piece rod since you'll likely be hiking a good bit. I wade wet with neoprene socks and felt-soled wading boots. Friends pack in lightweight breathable waders but since you scramble on rocks and hike and such, you've got to be careful not to tear them up.

Flies: Dark stonefly nymph 410, Yellow Sally 1218, Golden stone dry fly 810, Golden stone nymph 810, Green Wulff 1012, Sofa Pillow 410, Elk Hair Caddis 1218, Royal Wulff or Trude 1018, Humpy (yellow, royal, or standard) 1216, Woolly Bugger 46, Hoppers 612 (during summer), Pheasant Tail 1218, Prince Nymph 816, Bitch Creek 612, Caddis emerger 1418.

Regulations: From the lower boundary of the Tres Piedra Ranch (1= miles above U.S. Highway 160) to the Piedra River Bridge on FS 631 (Piedra Road), anglers may only use artificial flies and lures. Bag and possession limit is two trout.

Species of game fish: Wild brown and rainbow trout averaging 12 inches, with many larger fish. Some stocked fish near the campgrounds. In the upper sections, anglers will find some cutts and brookies.

Hazards: Rocks everywhere you look. Walk and wade carefully. You're a long way from a hospital.

Highlights: Strong wild trout shooting like bottle rockets at dry flies.

Scenery: Wilderness experience with granite box canyons, volcanic peak vistas, and solitude.

Navigable: Not typically applicable for fishing but rafters, canoeists, and kayakers do float the river and some outfitters do float fish the river.

Other: Backcountry Outfitters (970-264-4202), Ski and Bow Rack (970-264-2370).

The Piedra River is a canyon river, east of Durango, with fat browns and foot-long stocked rainbows swimming in its 40 miles of pocket water and deep pools. The Piedra flows through isolated granite box canyons in some of the wildest country in the West.

Think rocks (piedra in Spanish means rock). Lots of big rocks. And rocks mean stoneflies. Lots of stoneflies. The Piedra muddies quickly, but if you are on it when it is clear, you should expect some of the best stonefly hatches in the state, including some fantastic salmonfly hatches. But the key to success on the Piedra is to fish every likely lie and to make sure to nymph. Dries will work a lot of the time, but these trout love to take their food under the surface. The trout of the Piedra will hold in all likely holding spots — even in the shallows. But the river's deep pools and runs mean anglers need to get their flies deep enough to reach the trout lying in wait on the river bottom.

I caught and missed the biggest 14-inch trout I ever hooked on the Piedra — a trout as fat as a baked ham. He came up from two or three feet in a small pool surrounded by big rocks and took a Rio Grande King. The sting made his eyes blaze. He leapt in the air, stared me down, and slammed back into the water. I have dreams about him and his eyes.

Anglers are likely to see wildlife along the river — bears, elk, deer. You're not likely to encounter other fishermen along the medium-size stream. The Piedra is in wild country, very little of which is accessible by vehicle, so getting there can be tricky. Anglers should expect to hike a bit to get to the Piedra's deep holes and glassy pockets. This is an incredible place to hike in, camp out, and catch a lot of wild trout.

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