Milford Track Overview
New Zealand poet Blanche Baughan dubbed this four-day trek "the finest walk in the world." For once, a superlative is apt. Milford Track's 33 miles trace through some of Fiordland National Park's most pristine wilderness, starting at the azure Lake Te Anau and ending on the iconic shores of Milford Sound. Here, some 14,000 annual trekkers are rewarded with staggering views of 5,560-foot, snow-capped Mitre Peak. Three 500-foot waterfalls pummel the sound's waters, creating a 20-foot layer of fresh water floating above the ocean. Coarse crystalline rock cliffs rise almost directly from sea level to higher than 3,000 feet, molded 15,000 years ago by glaciers hell-bent on reaching the sea. On the shore, forests of thirsty beech trees do their best to soak up the region's 23 feet of annual rainfall, while dolphins, seals, and rare corals bask in the bay's underwater environment. It's the same view that greeted New Zealand's Maori ancestors some 2,000 years ago as they carried pounds of world-renowned pounamu greenstone over the 3,500-foot cliffs that make up parkland in the southwestern part of the South Island.
Popularity, of course, comes at a price. Today, the route is managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), which limits treks to 40 independent hikers per day (plus 50 for guided tours) in an effort to minimize tourist impact—in other words, reservations are essential, often five to 12 months in advance. The track itself is divided into four breathtaking days with two hut systems, one staffed by the DOC for independent hikers, the other offering swanky hotel-style huts run by the outfitter Ultimate Hikes. The extreme terrain and perpetually inclement weather have prevented serious development in the Fiordlands—in fact, there are parts of the park that have still not been explored.
The track starts along the silver, red, and mountain-beech-lined banks of the Clinton River, crosses several suspension bridges, and then zigzags up Mackinnon Pass for jaw-dropping views of Lake Mintaro and Clinton Canyon. The trail quickly scrambles down 3,000 feet of uneven rock, continues under the Jervois Glacier, passes more waterfalls, and then follows the fern- and fuchsia-dotted shores of Arthur River to Bell Rock, finally ending at Sandfly Point. The route itself is not especially demanding, but hikers should be prepared for muddy trails, frequent rainstorms, and armies of sandflies. During the peak season of October through May, hikers must travel south to north, starting at Lake Te Anau and ending at Milford Sound. The DOC's three cabins—Clinton, Mintaro, and Dumpling—are manned in the on-season and offer gas burners, coal stoves, and bunks. (If you need a duvet cover to consider it a vacation, go with Ultimate Hikes, which offers swankier digs at Glade House, Pompolona, and Quinton huts). In the offseason, visitors must purchase a backcountry pass and can use the huts for a fee. Avalanche danger is very real in the winter, and snow often makes parts of the trek impassable. Hikers should check weather conditions before departing. There is no cell phone service, so radios and/or locator beacons are highly recommended. Te Anau, the closest township to the track, offers full accommodations, gear rental, and transportation services. To reach either end of the track, visitors must take a ferry to Glade Wharf (from Te Anau Downs) or Milford Sound terminal (from Sandfly Point). Ferry tickets can be bought day-of, though hikers traveling off-season have to charter their own boat. Unless you hook up with a local operator, plan on packing in all the food you need, as well as a way to treat water.
While the track may be the most legendary aspect of the park, Milford Sound was designated the Eighth Wonder of the World by celebrated English writer Rudyard Kipling—and again, the superlative fits. Due to the sound's especially calm conditions and layers of both fresh and salt water, the underwater environment here closely resembles that of the deep ocean. Visitors can view sea life firsthand via the underwater viewing chambers at the Milford Deep Underwater Observatory. Refurbished in January 2010, the chambers are located more than 30 feet below the surface, presenting 360-degree views of Harrison Cove's 300-year-old coral "trees" and a handful of the sound's 160 species of fish. For those more comfortable above the surface, kayak tours operate out of Te Anau. Paddle with fur seals, Fiordland crested penguins, and the occasional dolphin. Overnight cruises, departing from Milford Wharf, house visitors in private cabins and offer nature guides and kayaking, as well as dinner and breakfast. Admire the orange and pink evening sky from the ship's viewing decks as you watch the sun sink down the center of the fjord.
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