The Denali Highway

Ten thousand years ago, hunters waited for the caribou around the Tangle Lakes, patiently chipping stones they would use as tools and weapons. A century ago, W. G. Jack struck gold near Valdez Creek, and within a few years, miners were pouring into the area. Mushers would soon run supplies to the gold camps along the dog-sled trail connecting Paxson and Cantwell. And when Denali National Park opened, the route became the gateway to the spectacular land surrounding North America's highest peak.

Today the Denali Highway is an often overlooked treasure taking the traveler back to Alaska's rich prehistoric past, it's colorful gold rush history and the awesome wilderness that remains throughout much of the state. No longer the primary route to Denali National Park, the highway is lightly traveled on the 133 miles between Paxson and Cantwell. Gravel after the first 21 miles, the road is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace, either behind the wheel or atop a bicycle. Travelers should plan for plenty of sidetrips? to explore archaeological sites, paddle wild rivers or hike the alpine tundra.

Mountains and Landscape
The Alaska Range follows a broad arc for 650 miles, from Cook Inlet on Alaska's west coast through the Denali massif and onward to the Canadian border. The Denali Highway passes through alpine tundra, paralleling this band of mountains to the south. Peaks like Mt. Hayes at 13,832', Hess at 11,940', and Mt. Deborah at 12,339' dominate the skyline.

To the southeast, the Wrangell Mountains rise even higher. Although almost 80 miles away, Mt. Sanford at 16,237' rises prominently, flanked by Mt Drum and Mt. Wrangell. As the northernmost active volcano on the Pacific Rim, Wrangell may at any time be venting steam into the Arctic air.

The land constantly reveals the work of glaciers that carved it over the millennia. The Gulkana and Gakona glaciers are visible just out of Paxson, remainders of ice floes that gouged the many U-shaped valleys appearing along the ride. Mid-way along, kettle lakes have formed. These small circular ponds developed when ice chunks broke from retreating glaciers and were buried in sediment. As the ice melted, the land sank into bowl-shaped depressions. Farther along, the road travels on outstanding examples of eskers, ridges of silt, sand and gravel that were deposited by streams flowing within a glacier.

At the height of the summer, wildflowers dot the open tundra. Evergreens cling low to the ground. Black spruce and dwarf willow are stunted from the extreme winter cold and short growing season.

Wild and Scenic Paddling
About 15 miles west of Paxson, the Denali Highway enters the Tangle Lakes region. This land of tundra-covered rolling hills forms the divide between two wild and scenic rivers, the Delta and the Gulkana. A series of long narrow lakes connected by the Tangle River, the area offers a smooth float in the headwaters of the Delta. From the Tangle Lakes Campground at mile 22 from Paxson, boaters and canoeists can paddle through Round, Long and Lower Lakes to the river itself. Fishermen crowd into the area aiming for grayling, plus the occasional lake trout, burbot and whitefish. Rafters can keep going into the Delta for a 29 mile run to the Richardson Highway. The float takes 2 to 3 days with Class I, II and III rapids .

Portaging south from Upper Tangle to Dickey Lake takes floaters into the Gulkana drainage. The headwaters of the Gulkana's Middle Fork exit Dickey's southeast tip. Paddlers may be lulled into complacency in the easy floating for the first three miles of the outlet stream. Then the flow plunges into a steep, boulder-strewn canyon with Class III and IV rapids before hitting the Middle Fork. The full trip down the Middle Fork from Tangle Lakes to Sourdough is 76 miles over 6 to 7 days. This trip is an isolated wilderness experience where moose, grizzly and wolves will watch you pass.

Hiking
Those wanting to take a break from the bike or car will find plenty of opportunities for strolling into the wilderness. Just beyond the Tangle Lakes, the Amphitheater Mountains jut out from the Alaska Range. A glacier carved a large hole through the mountains, Landmark Gap. A long finger of water has filled the bottom of the gap and the snowy caps of Mount Moffit and McGinnis Peak rise beyond it. Landmark Gap Lake is a great destination for an easy dayhike or overnighter. The route is a five-mile round trip along an old dirt track to the south shore. Trails extend along the lake and hikers can proceed through the gap to the north slope of the Amphitheaters.

Mclaren Summit, 37 miles west of Paxson, is the high point of the Denali Highway. The summit is a good jumping off point for rambles across the open tundra. An esker heads north from the road, initially with a fading vehicle track. The track shortly veers off, and hikers can continue along the ridge past a variety of lakes and ponds. About five miles out, the ridge tops out at 4,100 feet, with a panorama of the Amphitheater Mountains and the Alaska Range.

Biking
A leisurely pedal is one of the best ways to enjoy the spectacular land along the Denali Highway. Cyclists should be prepared for a rugged ride once the pavement ends 21 miles from Paxson. The road is improved gravel, but that does not preclude long washboard and potted stretches. The high point is Mclaren Summit at 4,086 feet. The summit does not sound terribly high, but it is the second highest pass on an Alaskan road. The highway has plenty of opportunities for camping and limited facilities. Check with the BLM for an update on the services you will find along the way.

Mountain bikers will find ample tracks off the highway. In the Tangle Lakes area, BLM trails are open to bikes and off-road vehicles. The BLM recommends several of the drier routes for mountain biking. The Mclaren River Road follows the West Fork for 12 miles to the Mclaren Glacier. The river must be forded after 4 miles and it can be running high after rains. The Mclaren Summit trail is also good for bikes, along with an eight mile route to Osar Lake. The trail to Landmark Gap Lake is good if bikers don't mind passing through a brief marshy stretch.

Wildlife Watching and Birding
The alpine tundra and lake districts are home to a fabulous diversity of wildlife. Moose, black and grizzly bears, and caribou roam the open spaces and forests. Bald eagles, gyrfalcons and long-tailed jaegers circle overhead. Trumpeter swans, ptarmigan, loons and more birdlife are common.

The BLM, which administers the highway, recommends several spots for wildlife watching. Mud Lake just out of Paxson is a clear shallow lake frequented by trumpeter swans, bald eagles, and moose. Sockeye salmon can be seen in the waters. Fiftymile Lake is another good place for spotting swans, bald eagles and moose, along with grizzly, caribou and beaver. Caribou migrate through an area west of the Susitna River.

The Tangle Lakes are prime bird-watching habitat. Red-necked Phalaropes can be seen sucking insects from the lake bottom, along with swans, wigeons and pintails.

Fishing
The lakes along the Denali Highway are Arctic Grayling territory. These cousins of the trout typically mature to 13 ounces, though the Alaska state record tips the scales at 4 pounds higher. They are easily fished from May to September and have a reputation for hitting just about anything, bait, lures or flies. The BLM recommends ten spots along the highway for grayling: Ten Mile Lake (mile 10), Tangle Lakes (mile 23), Landmark Gap Lake (mile 25), Rock Creek (mile 25), Fiftymile Lake (mile 50), Glacier Lake (mile 31), Sevenmile Lake (mile 40), Crooked Creek (mile 47), and Brushkana Creek ( mile 105).

Ten Mile, Tangle, Landmark Gap, Glacier and Sevenmile Lakes, along with Big and Little Swede Lakes at mile 25, also have lake trout. Burbot, a freshwater cod with a whisker-like barbel at the tip of the chin, are found in Ten Mile, Tangle and Big Swede. Mature Burbot in Alaska range from 18 to 45 inches and from 1 to 18 pounds. The Alaskan record is a monster 24 pounder.

Check with the Alaska Fish and Game for licensing requirements and bait and limit restrictions. And, when possible, practice catch and release.

History and Prehistory
The Tangle Lakes area contains some of the earliest and most continuous evidence of human occupation in North America, extending back more than 10,000 years. At least four cultures occupied the area: the Denali Complex from 10,500 to 7,000 years ago; the Northern Archaic Tradition from 7,000 to 1,000 years ago; the Late Prehistoric Period from 1,000 years ago to 1770, and the current Athapaskan Tradition.

Over 400 archaeological sites dot the area. About 225,000 acres are officially designated as the BLM's Tangle Lakes Archaeological District, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The District is wide open to exploring and recreation. But remember the area is covered by the Archaeological Resources Protection Act, which prohibits collecting or damaging any artifacts or sites.

The Susitna River, 80 miles from Paxson, was the site of gold fever around the turn of the century. A company of prospectors first explored the river in 1897. But swarms of mosquitoes attacked the miners, swelling their eyes and nearly blinding them. These tribulations and an exhausted food supply forced them to abandon their search, but legends of gold in the area persisted. Several years later, the discovery of the Valdez Creek gold field sparked a minor rush. Over the next decade, $300,000 worth of the metal was extracted, and the discovery of a mother lode vein in 1925 sparked another flurry of activity. An original log cabin of the Valdez Creek Gold Camp remains standing just west of the Susitna River, with a viewpoint overlooking the mine across the river.

Thanks to Walt Rowland at Alaskan Bicycle Adventures for photos.