Bitterroot National Forest Overview
The Bitterroot National Forest, which straddles the Idaho-Montana border amid a vast patchwork of public lands, isn't that easy to pick out on a map. But that's only fitting—political boundaries seem overwhelmed by the vast, howling wilderness that stretches with few interruptions along the reach of the northern Rocky Mountains, from Wyoming's Wind River Range deep into Canada. Whatever your outdoor obsessions may be—running big-water rivers, hiking through bear country, horsepacking through glacier-draped high country, fly-fishing a blue-ribbon trout stream—you'll find this country is one of the world's last great places.
The 1.6-million-acre Bitterroot is without question one of the marquee tracts in the national-forest system. It encompasses parts of the biggest, most rugged wilderness areas in the Rockies, the Frank Church-River of No Return, and the Selway-Bitterroot, along with the smaller but equally spectacular Anaconda Pintler Wilderness. Two stunning, jagged-peaked mountain ranges, the Bitterroot and the Sapphire, rise within the forest; these peaks are drained by the roaring Selway, Clearwater, and Bitterroot Rivers. Nearly half the forest is designated wilderness, much more the domain of deer, elk, moose, black bears, and bighorn sheep than of humans.
The 1,600 miles of trails in this forest meander through the ancestral home of the Bitterroot Salish Native Americans; the Nez Perce also frequented the area. The Lewis and Clark expedition brought the first recorded Euro-Americans up here, but things really got rolling in the 1860s with the discovery of gold. Lumber moved in the 1880s, and soon after, of course, the nation woke up to the idea of protecting the land. Initial protection came in 1897, and the area became national forest land when the Forest Service was created in 1907.
Hike the High Country
From the juniper of the dry valley floors to the spruce of the higher elevations, hiking through Bitterroot will surround you with nature and great views. Just be careful when you go: While trails are usually open and snow-free by July 15, snow can come at any time of year. Try the six-mile-long Palisade Mountain Trail on the northern edge of Skalkaho Game Preserve and end up at Burnt Fork Lake in the Sapphire Mountains. You'll get a great view of the Bitterroot Mountains and chances to see big game. To throw in some history with your day hike, tackle the Big Hole Battlefield Trail. This trail, that begins near the Sula Ranger Station and climbs 3.8 miles to the Gibson Pass area, was the same one that Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce traveled in 1877 in an attempt to reach Canada. Another great option is a section of the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail, on the southeast boundary of the Bitterroot. The payoff is a view of the Anaconda-Pintler Wilderness and Big Hole Valley, along with deer, elk, and other big game.
Ski to Lost Trail Pass
Whether you're taking to the groomed trails or forging a path of your own through deep snow drifts, the Bitterroot's a great place to cross-country. Cold, dry conditions make for perfect skiing powder. And, if you want to take off on a multi-day trip through the woods, the forest has cabins you can rent in the winter months. Just a day skier? No problem—you'll have your pick of difficulty levels and conditions. If you're looking for a challenge, try the Saddle Mountain/Lost Trail Pass, 4.8 kilometers that'll leave you huffing and puffing. Or check out Chief Joseph Cross Country Trails, which serves up 8 kilometers of very easy touring and almost 17 additional miles of more difficult stuff. The trails are groomed weekly.
Brandish Your Binoculars
There's no question that some of Montana's best birding can be found in the Bitterroot, thanks to its wide variety of terrains. How varied? Elevations range from 3,200 feet in the valley to over 10,000 feet on the mountaintops, and variations in temperature and precipitation caused by the elevations make for many specialized bird habitats. On the dry valley floor with its sage and juniper, look for orioles and tanagers. And in the wetlands and marshes, keep an eye out for loons, grebes, pelicans, cormorants, and snow geese. Chances are good for seeing birds of prey as well: Osprey, bald eagle, hawk, falcon, and kestrel all live here.
Two-Wheel the Roads and Trails
What kind of biker are you? Wait, it doesn't matter what you like—you're bound to find it in Bitterroot. If you're green behind the handlebars, head to the Darby Ranger District, where you'll find wide, quiet roads. Got a bit more experience under your belt? The Darby also offers tough singletrack trails. Two great options: The Railroad-Daly Loop, a 16-mile non-technical circle that includes some smooth on-road riding and some bumpy, washboard-like off-roading. Or try the Lake Como Loop, an eight-mile circuit around the gorgeous body of water. Get back in the woods and you'll find wooden water bars and rocky spots you'll have to carry your bike over. You'll probably also find much livestock use in the late summer and fall. The only downside for bikers is the fact that almost half of the forest is wilderness area, where only foot traffic is allowed.
Ply the Sula Deer, Elk, and Bighorn Driving Tour
Who'd have thought a 22-mile drive could be so satisfying? You may want to drive it several times, or just stop often along the way. The Sula Deer, Elk, and Bighorn Driving Tour certainly isn't lengthy, but for wildlife viewing it can't be beat. Drive Highway 93 and the East Fork Road and watch for deer and elk. Then head south to Spring Fulch Campground and continue towards Lost Trail Pass; as you check out the deer and elk on the hillside, you'll pass canyons, great for seeing bighorn sheep. The best times for seeing the elk are the winter months; the snow is less deep here than in the mountains and food more abundant. But in the summertime, don't expect to be counting antlers—those elk take off for the deep mountains.
