Annapurna Circuit

In the outdoor world, and within the larger realm of travel writing, superlatives are almost always used—and they almost always say nothing. Everything is the best, greatest, most spectacular, and (to use a word that plagues all editors) unique. But when we talk about Nepal's Annapurna Circuit, the quicksand of obvious adjectives becomes hard to sidestep. Instead, we'll just state the obvious: The Annapurna Circuit is trekking. You won't find the most luxe backcountry hotels; the food, while good, is seldom great; and with 40,000 annual visitors, isolation is the last term used to characterize this 128-mile route. But the fact remains: Annapurna is the best in trekking.

The circuit traces a still-functioning trade route that dates back to ancient times, carving a wide horseshoe through the vast topography of the Himalayas. Jungles give way to rivers; which give way to high alpine meadows; which give way to the higher-elevation, snow-covered peaks that form the gob-stopping horizon that eventually culminates in the highest point on earth (that little peak called Mount Everest). Along the trek, small villages buzz with daily life, and interacting with the kind-hearted locals makes you forget the crowds on the trail. Buddhist monasteries reinforce the undeniably spiritual experience, and a steady cache of teahouses offer a warm meal, safe refuge, and—for a fee—a place to toss your sleeping bag. Whether you go for a few days or the full 18- to 25-day trek, rest assured that you'll long to return.

The central Annapurna gateway is undeniably Kathmandu, host to all things trekking, from supplies to guides to gear rental. Give yourself at least one day in this city to acclimate—and we recommend taking care of some of the logistics before you arrive. Book a place to stay, for example, and ask your hotel if it offers airport pickup. If it does, it's often a free service and will save you the trouble of trying to navigate around a hectic place from the get-go. Also, try to score a map and a guidebook before arriving. But if you arrive with neither, you can shop for what you need locally. There are English-language bookstores in the Thamel district, a very tourist-oriented part of the city. The restaurant scene in pleasantly diverse, so you can eat what you like. Of course, if you want to eat like the locals, dig into a plate of dal bhat, a meal of lentils and rice.

As you'd expect, guided trips abound—from U.S. tour operators to Nepalis based out of Kathmandu (who typically come cheaper than their Western counterparts). But the hike is very DIY-friendly, with most trail difficulty defined by elevation gain and loss rather than dicey terrain or tricky trail marking. The infrastructure of teahouses and villages also means you won't need your stove or tent, but do pack your water filter. And before you head out, get the required trekking permit in Thamel at the Annapurna Conservation Area Project office, which costs around $30 U.S.

The full 150-mile trek starts in Besisahar, which you can reach by bus from Kathmandu, and ends in Pokhara. The circuit will take you up the Marsyangdi River Valley, over the Thorung La Pass, and down the Kali Gandaki River Valley. Thorung La is the highest point of the circuit at 17,769 feet, an elevation that's all the more striking considering you start hiking at around 3,000 feet. In other words, take your time to acclimate. The town of Manang, at 11,600 feet, offers a good daylong acclimatization and rest point with spectacular views of the mountains and valley.

Peak trekking season runs mid-September to late November and mid-March to late April. If you can, go in October, the best travel month due to fortuitous weather. Be warned: Temperatures do fluctuate as much as 20 to 80 degrees, depending on elevation. You will also avoid the monsoon season, although there could still be precipitation.

If you can only spare a week or so, opt for the eight- to ten-day trek through the Marsyangdi River Valley. Don't forget to factor in transport time for the daylong bus ride from Pokhara or Katmandu to the trailhead. There are other options, like the Jomson Trek that goes from Birethanti to Muktinath, but the river valley is less traveled.

The teahouses along the trail provide a place to stay every night and offer opportunities to mingle with locals and fellow travelers. Bring a sleeping pad for comfort; the beds tend to be made of straw, foam, or simply wood with a blanket on top. It's also good to have a lock to secure your room. The food isn't exactly gourmet, but you'll have a fair amount of choices besides dal bhat, such as yak, pizza, mac and cheese, and lo mein, which you can wash down with beer.

If you're considering this trek, we suggest going sooner rather than later. Not only is tourism changing the area, but road construction that's under way in Marsyangdi—and will run through Chame and Manang—will noticeably impact the trek.