A Trekking Primer

There are a number of questions to ask yourself before embarking on a trekking vacation.

Independent Travel or Outfitted Group?
The usual tradeoffs apply. Outfitted group trips are more expensive but relieve you of all logistical chores, which can be substantial in a remote Third World country. You'll meet some good people and feel part of a team. In case of an emergency, you'll have somebody to help you. Independent trekking, on the other hand, is cheaper (see below for cost breakdowns) and has the advantages of flexibility and serendipity. Your choice.
In some cases, your choice will depend on where you're going. Nepal, where trekking was essentially invented and the country most trekkers still think of first, is well set up for independent travelers. It's estimated that of the 70,000 trekkers a year who visit Nepal, only about 10-20 percent travel with organized groups. Unless you are fluent in Nepali and very resourceful, however, independent trekking in Nepal is limited to the three areas that have teahouses and other tourist facilities: the Annapurna Circuit, the Everest region, and to a lesser extent, the Langtang area north of Kathmandu.

Annapurna is by far the most popular destination for independent trekkers, due to its abundant teahouses--small, very rustic inns with bunks and food available--and easy accessibility from Kathmandu. Everest has plenty of teahouses, but there's a catch: Getting a plane ticket to Lukla, the most popular jumping-off spot for Everest, is nearly impossible for an independent traveler during peak season. The alternative is a two-week walk in from Jiri, the end of the road from Kathmandu.

Practically speaking, to trek anywhere in the Himalayas but Annapurna, Everest, or Langtang requires a support crew of porters and cooks. (The alternative is to carry a 60-pound pack with food and camping gear--not a trivial matter at 15,000 feet.) Even in the Annapurna and Everest areas, many "independent" trekkers sacrifice a bit of their independence by hiring a porter to help carry loads, guide them along the trails, and help find food and lodging.

Other Himalayan trekking countries--Sikkim, Bhutan, Tibet, India, and Pakistan--are difficult or impossible for the independent traveler, either because of the logistical demands or government restrictions. Most visitors to those countries go in groups, or at the very least hire local porters and guides.

In most other trekking countries, such as Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, and Morocco, do-it-yourself trekking is pretty much out of the question due to the lack of facilities along the trails. A guide and porters are a virtual necessity.

Sign Up in Advance With a U.S. Outfitter, or Find a Local Operator Once In-Country?
In Nepal, Kathmandu swarms with trekking outfitters, and you'll have little trouble finding one to take you pretty much anywhere you want to go in Nepal. Prices typically run about $50-60 a day per person, about half what U.S. operators charge. On a long trek, that adds up to a lot of money. The same situations apply in other cities near major trekking areas, such as Islamabad (Pakistan), Cuzco (Peru), or Marrakech (Morocco).

The downside of local guide/outfitters--beyond the time and hassle of locating, interviewing, and bargaining with them--is that their sanitation standards and language skills will almost certainly not be up to those of U.S. operators. ("I felt like I was traveling in a vacuum," commented one American woman whose Nepalese guide barely spoke English and spent little time schmoozing the clients, unlike a trip leader for a U.S. company.) And for many people, the safety net of a U.S. company in case of an emergency is worth paying extra for. Your choice.

How Much Will It Cost?
You can spend anywhere from $10 a day to $250 a day (per person) for a trek. Starting at the bottom, here are the various cost options:

• $10/day: Independent economy "teahouse trek" in Nepal. No porter or guide, room and board at the cheapest teahouses. Practical only along well-traveled routes like the Annapurna Circuit and Everest basecamp trail. High tolerance for exotic bacteria, smoke, and bedbugs recommended.
• $20/day: Porter-assisted upscale independent teahouse trek. Better food and lodging, plus one porter/guide to help carry your stuff. In areas without accommodations, like Pakistan or Peru, you'll pay perhaps $30 a day for one or two porter/guides to carry your camping gear and show you the way.
• $40-$60/day: Group trek with local guide and camp staff. This is generally what you'll pay for a standard trek with a local outfitter in Kathmandu or Islamabad or Cuzco. Prices are lower in populated areas where food and lodging are available for porters. Remote areas require more food and fuel to be carried, therefore more porters.
• $90-$150/day: Full-service group trek with U.S. operator, includes hotels in staging city, transportation to and from trailheads, Western trip leader, and side tours.
• $150-$300/day: Full-service group trek in remote or restricted areas. Bhutan, remote parts of Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan require high fees and/or a heavy reliance on costly charter vehicles and other expensive logistics.

What About Altitude Sickness?
Above about 8,000 feet, some people begin to suffer symptoms beyond mere huffing and puffing: headache, nausea, lethargy. Above 12,000 feet or so, virtually everybody suffers a bit, at least initially. As altitude increases, symptoms can become more severe, including potentially fatal cerebral and pulmonary edema. Oddly, altitude sickness seems to strike almost at random; a vegetarian marathon runner may be laid low while the fat chain-smoking slob in the next tent does just fine. One theory says that one's susceptibility to altitude sickness depends on one's involuntary background breathing rate, or hypoxic ventilatory responses. The higher yours is, the better.

Fortunately, there's a lot you can do to combat altitude sickness. The most important thing is to ascend gradually once you get above 10,000 feet or so--ideally, no more than 1,000 feet per day. This gives the body time to acclimatize by building up extra red blood cells and growing more capillaries. Secondly, guzzle water like there's no tomorrow. This helps to keep your blood at the proper level of acidity, which affects your natural breathing rate. Thirdly, take Diamox, a prescription diuretic that has been shown to prevent or delay altitude sickness in most people.

What Special Equipment Do I Need?
If you're already the outdoorsy type, not much. A good pair of hiking boots is a top priority--although Himalayan porters walk thousands of miles in flip-flops, rubber galoshes, and even barefoot. Weather at higher altitudes is fickle and can get quite cold at night, so good outdoor clothing--layers of wicking underwear, fleece insulation, and rainproof outerwear--is a must. Ditto for your sleeping bag. Because of the intense ultraviolet radiation at higher elevations, a good sun hat and sunglasses that block 100 percent ultraviolet rays are virtually mandatory. More and more trekkers, especially Europeans, use trekking poles--ski poles with soft rubber tips--for good balance on rough trails, and to take a bit of the load off the legs.