A Walkabout in Bhutan

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There are numerous set treks to choose from: cultural trekking in the Bumthang valleys, day walks in Punakha and Paro, mountain trekking to the great peak Chomolhari and the village of Laya, a four-day trek to hot springs at Gasa. See Lonely Planet's Bhutan guidebook for a complete listing.

All treks are organized as camping trips, so a comprehensive crew is supplied to look after you. All equipment is carried by pack horses, mules, or yaks; trekkers only carry a daypack. Trails are incredibly clean, particularly by Himalayan standards; trekkers who have come from Nepal to Bhutan say that the kingdom is a pristine paradise in comparison.

Low-level treks, such as the Bumthang cultural circuit, are easy; treks such as the Chomolhari (also spelled Jhomolhari) and Laya treks are demanding because of the altitude, although height gain is generally gradual.

Note: Take your own sleeping bag and sleeping mattress, even if your tour operator says they are provided.

Tourist Information
Information is primarily available through travel agents. Alternatively, contact Tourism Authority of Bhutan, P.O. Box 126, Thimphu, Bhutan.

Visas are arranged in advance by your tour operator and issued for two weeks at a cost of US$20. Extensions available for 500 ngultrum (approximately $10). International dialing code: 975.

When to Go
Spring (April to June) and autumn (October and November) for walking. February to June and September to December for festivals and cultural events. An accurate list of the next year's festivals is prepared in June.

Bhutan is at the same latitude as Miami and Cairo but the climate varies wildly with elevation. Expect tropical conditions in the south, permanent snow on the peaks, rain everywhere from June to September, and cool, clear conditions in October and November.

Getting There
Fly to Delhi, then transfer to Druk Air for the spectacular flight to Paro (US$286 each way at 1999 prices. Sit on the left of the plane flying to Bhutan for an incredible view of Mount Everest. It's worth considering business class, which is slightly more expensive but gives you a better chance of a good seat for the Himalaya view. Alternatively, fly from Delhi to Bagdogra (northeastern India), then overland to Bhutan, entering by road at Phuntsholing.

Equipment
If you are trekking in the mountains, take lightweight clothing for the day, down jacket and fleece legwear for evenings; if you head for the eastern lowlands, be prepared for consistently hot weather. Take a waterproof jacket, even in the "dry" season. There is an excellent trekkers' packing list in the Lonely Planet guide. Sterilizing hand gel is very useful and an effective way of reducing the risk of stomach upsets. A water filter is essential.

Eating and Sleeping
Accommodation is usually quirky and often luxurious. In towns you'll stay in comfortable hotels ranging from five-star giants built in the style of dzongs (the great monasteries) to cozy bungalow-style apartments. Expect tents on treks.

Itineraries in Bhutan can be anything you choose, based on an all-inclusive rate of approximately US$200 per day, set by the Bhutanese government. This sounds expensive but includes all food, transport, guides, accommodation and government taxes, so it actually works out to be a reasonable value.

Groups are encouraged to eat in hotels, but small parties—up to four—can usually persuade the guide to "eat out." Food is excellent and plentiful, with a strong Chinese influence. Bhutanese have red-hot chilies with everything—chilies in a cheese sauce is a favorite—but tourist cuisine is quite mild.

Guidebooks warn against meat and pork but, in three weeks, I found no basis for concern. I did, however, purify all water. Soft drinks are a safe bet—Mirinda, a fizzy orange drink, is ubiquitous and costs around 12 Nu. Beer is imported, usually from India, and is reasonably priced.

Hazards

Altitude Sickness: Altitude is a real issue: Trekkers get sick every year by not recognizing symptoms of AMS (acute mountain sickness) or HACE (high altitude cerebral edema). There is an excellent description of symptoms in the Lonely Planet Bhutan guidebook; if in doubt, descend.

Vaccinations: Necessary vaccinations include polio, typhoid, and hepatitis. Malaria prophylaxis is also needed if you plan to travel in certain low-lying areas (such as Punakha valley). Organize these well in advance of your trip.

Sun: Sunblock is essential.

Water purification: Water purification is a constant issue: We took iodine and a water filter, used in tandem. Make sure your first aid kit is comprehensive and up-to-date; we took general antibiotics and sterilized needles.

Maps, Guidebooks, Background Reading
Lonely Planet Bhutan (author: Stan Armington, published 1998) is the definitive guide to the country. It covers every possible angle, from Buddhism and history to festivals and trekking. Joanna Lumley's In The Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon offers an interesting blend of historical and contemporary comment. Bookshops in Thimphu have a wide range of books on the country's flora and fauna.

Maps are not generally available. The Tourism Authority of Bhutan is in the process of producing large-scale contour maps of major trekking routes, but as you can only travel in Bhutan with a guide, they are not essential. There is a good road map of Bhutan at 1:500, 000 by Berndtson & Berndtson.