South Africa and Zimbabwe are more lush and beautiful after the rains, but you'll see more animals in the dry season (September and October) when trees are bare and thirsty animals congregate at waterholes. In East Africa, time your visit to coincide with the migration, especially if you're visiting only one country.

The migratory wildebeest give birth in Tanzania's Serengeti in March, and in late June and July they begin to move north in company with zebras to Kenya's Mara, followed closely by the predators. In October they begin to move south again. Safaris are scheduled year-round — including"bargain" safaris to the wrong country at the wrong time.

Generally, guides are well trained, especially in Zimbabwe, but a brilliant bush guide can be silenced by rowdy travelers bent on their own "good time." Black Africans in particular are quieter and much more polite than Americans, especially Americans on holiday. And let's face it, a lot of jerks go on safari. Rule of thumb: You'll learn as much as you care to ask.

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