Cape Lookout National Seashore - The Land's Story

Wind, waves, and currents are continually at work reshaping these low-lying islands; one strong storm can create extensive changes. In such an environment only the most tenacious plants can survive the constant battle. Of the plants, the grasses are the most important, for their deep roots help to anchor the sand. For this reason, sea oats, a large grass with a grain-like head, is protected by law. Please do not pick it.

Human beings, too, have found this environment difficult to deal with but also protective and bountiful. One of the earliest maps that shows Cape Lookout dates from 1590 and calls the area"promontorium tremendum" -- horrible headland -- in recognition of the area's treacherous shoals. Behind the islands, however, are several sheltered anchorages that can shield a vessel from a Northeaster or, as in World War II, an enemy submarine. Fishing and whaling have for centuries been an important industry on the Outer Banks. In the 19th century, the small settlement of Diamond City on Shackleford Banks became famous for the excellent salted mullet it shipped. The secret lay not in the quality of fish, but in the care the Diamond City processors took in cleaning, salting and packing the fish. Commercial fishing continues today as the forces of nature continue to shape and alter these islands.

Plants and Animals
In the area near Portsmouth Village, much of the land is awash at high tide; only a few areas support vegetation. Scattered groves of trees grow on Core Banks, particularly at Guthrie's Hammock. The Cape Lookout Bight area and Shackleford Banks have large dunes, and it is at Shackleford that you will find the most extensive maritime forest in the park. Vines are common. The changing geography of the island produces the strange and beautiful"ghost forests" on the ocean side of the groves: trees killed by advancing sand and salt spray leave their sun-bleached skeletons protruding from the sand.

Mammals are uncommon on the islands; rice rats, rabbits, river otters, and raccoons are some of the native species found here. On Shackleford is a population of sheep, goats, cows, and horses that have gone wild. The islands are an excellent place to observe birds, particularly during spring and fall migrations. Occasionally, an arctic bird will appear, and a few pelagic, or open-sea, birds visit the area. In summer, a number of tern species, egrets, herons, and some shore birds nest in the park. On Core Banks are Fowler's toads and tree frogs; diamond-back terrapins and box turtles are also fairly common. Loggerhead turtles come up on the beaches at nesting time. There are no known venomous reptiles.

People on the Islands
From the time of the first human settlements, local inhabitants were interested in trade and fishing. Portsmouth was established by the North Carolina Assembly in 1753 as a point at which ships' cargoes could be lightered ashore for shipment to the mainland, or the ships could be sufficiently lightened to cross the bar and proceed to Beaufort, Bath, and other ports. A self-guiding walking tour tells you about the village's past. Important to fishing and shipping was the marking of shoals and safe channels. Lighthouses were crucial to this. The lighthouse at Cape Lookout Bight was completed in 1859 as a replacement for one built in 1812. It has survived hurricanes and war, and today is in a battle with the sea.

Cape Lookout National Seashore is a changing environment where nature, when left relatively undisturbed by humans, maintains a balance. You can help be a part of this balancing act by observing park rules and regulations.