Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - Hiking
Perhaps the two best backcountry areas for backpacking are the remote Escalante and Orange Cliffs areas. However, you don't have to travel to the backside of yonder to walk in some beautiful desert. Here are two options. . .Horseshoe Bend View
This short hike takes you to a spectacular view of Horseshoe Bend and the Colorado River from high atop the canyon rim.
Getting There: Approximately 5 miles (8 km) south of Carl Hayden Visitor Center on U.S. Hwy. 89, just south of highway marker 545, turn west on the dirt road which ascends the small hill. You may drive a short distance west on the dirt road and park at the base of the hill. Or you may prefer to park your car in the wide pull-off by the highway, for the dirt road has some soft, sandy spots and some rocky places. Vehicles are prohibited beyond the end of the parking lot at the base of the hill.
The Hike: From the top of the short hill, it is 0.4 mile (0.65 km) to the viewpoint. The wide, sandy trail winds past sage, blackbrush, yucca, and ether desert plants. There is no shade. Take water with you.
The view of Horseshoe Bend from the rim of the canyon is extraordinary. (You'll need a wide-angle lens to get the entire scene in your photographs.) Below you, the Colorado River makes a wide sweep around a sandstone escarpment. Long ago, as the river meandered southward, it always chose the most downward slope. This downward journey did not always occur in a straight line, and sometimes the river made wide circles around higher spines of rock. Here at Horseshoe Bend, the Colorado River did just that, and as the river cut down through the layers of sandstone, it created a horseshoe-shaped bend in the canyon.
Conceivably, at some time far in the future, the river could erode through the narrow neck of rock, creating a natural bridge and abandoning the horseshoe-shaped channel around the rock.
Wiregrass Canyon
Canyon Rats Unite!
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This longer, more strenuous hike takes you into Wiregrass Canyon, a steep-sided wash which leads down to Lake Powell. The hike through the wash provides views of colorful cliffs, balanced rocks, alcoves, and natural bridges. Getting There: From Page or Wahweap, drive north on U.S. Hwy. 89 to Big Water, Utah. Between mileposts 7 and 8, turn right. (There is a sign on the highway indicating "Big Water City.") Turn right 0.3 mile (0.5 km} from the junction. (There is a sign which reads "Glen Canyon National Recreation Area - State Highway 12" and which indicates the road.) Drive 4.6 miles (7.5 km) to Wiregrass Canyon Back Country Use Area." Park in the pullout provided.
The dirt road to Wiregrass Canyon is accessible to 2WD vehicles when the road is dry. Wet weather, however, can make the road impassable for even 4WD vehicles. Ask a park ranger for current weather and road conditions.
The Hike: Wiregrass Canyon extends for approximately 3 miles (5 km) from the road to Lake Powell. There is no trail as such, but it is easy to follow the wash. In some places it will be necessary to climb out of the wash and detour around pour-offs (drop-offs where waterfalls flow during flash floods). Narrow footpaths around these pour-offs have been created by hikers. Cairns (small piles of rocks) help to mark the main canyon.
About 1 mile (1.6 km) from the road, you will find a small natural bridge, formed when flood waters from the canyon paralleling Wiregrass Canyon finally cut through the narrow canyon wall. Flood waters now rush through this natural bridge into Wiregrass Canyon, and the periodic streams have abandoned the lower part of the parallel canyon. As you continue down the wash, you will see balanced rocks, small arches high in the canyon wails, and side canyons which you are welcome to explore. Near Lake Powell, but still in the wash, you will see a second natural bridge.
The USGS 7.5 minute Lone Rock Quadrangle may be helpful buy it at the Carl Hayden Visitor Center.
Wiregrass Canyon provides little shade, and the rocks reflect the sun's heat. Fall, winter, and spring are the best times for this hike. If hiking in the summer, start as early in the morning as possible.
Practicalities
Maps: Topographic maps may also be ordered from the USGS, Public Inquiries Office, 125 South State Street, Salt Lake City, UT 84138.
Utah road maps and Multipurpose Maps may be obtained from the Utah Travel Council, Council Hall, Salt Lake City, UT 84114.
Water availability varies from hike to hike. An abundance of springs may be available on some hikes; other hikes may have no water at all. Always filter or boil water since Giardia or other pathogens may be present.
Weather: The best months for hiking the canyons are March thru mid-June and September and October. Springtime weather may vary from warm days and cool nights to rainy and even snowy conditions. Summer months bring very hot temperatures while autumn usually promises pleasant hiking weather. Winter temperatures may dip well below zero.
Thunderstorm season is from mid-July thru September and is the period when flash flood danger is greatest. Flash floods may occur anytime, however, so keep an eye on the sky--especially before entering a narrow canyon. Camp above the flood plain each night to avoid an unpleasant "midnight surprise." Remember that storms several miles away may cause flash floods where you are, even though you are enjoying clear skies.
Backcountry Travel: When hiking, walk on slickrock or sand whenever possible. Stay on established trails to prevent creating new ones. Likewise, never cut switchbacks. Cryptobiotic soils, the dark crust of lichens, fungi, algae and moss which binds desert soils, is easily damaged when walked upon and may take years to regenerate. In canyons, walk in or along streams so that high water will erase your footprints. Following these practices will prevent erosion and soil damage.
Campsite Selection: When possible, choose an existing campsite with no vegetation or organic soil. Sandy or slickrock benches make the best sites. All campsites should be at least 100 feet, preferably 200 feet, from water sources to prevent contamination. Do not make "improvements" such as trenches or rock structures and avoid trampling vegetation around the perimeter which prevents the campsite from becoming enlarged and barren. When leaving your camp, rehabilitate the area by scattering dead leaves or twigs around. Make sure nothing has been left behind.
Campfires: Fire rings, charcoal, soot stains on rocks and garbage in fire pits all leave unsightly scars. Charcoal from modern fires may also contaminate archaeological evidence making it impossible to date ancient campfire remains. For these and other reasons, fires are not allowed within Glen Canyon NRA, and are discouraged on BLM administered lands. Besides, the stars or the play of moonlight on canyon walls are experiences you won't want to miss.
Sanitation: The dry desert climate often preserves waste before decomposition is complete, so extra attention is required. For human waste, dig a "cat hole" six to eight inches deep and at least 100 feet from water sources. Carry out the toilet paper in a plastic bag.
All washing should also be done at least 100 feet from water sources. Use only biodegradable soaps and pour wash water on the ground away from springs and streams.
For some reason, many people find that carrying an empty container out of the backcountry is more work than carrying a full one in. Please think of those who will visit after you and carry out all trash.
Pets and Livestock: Dogs threaten wildlife and may prevent hikers from seeing any animals. They also foul campsites, trails and streams, so their excrement must be disposed of in the same manner as human waste. Additionally, they may get into trouble in this rugged country. For their own safety, to prevent intrusions on others and for your convenience, pets are best left at home. If you do bring a pet, they must be kept on a leash within Glen Canyon NRA.
Saddle and pack stock are welcome, however processed feed must be carried to prevent spread of noxious weeds. Picket stock away from campsites and water sources and in a manner to prevent pawing of roots or stripping bark.
About the Area
Various cultures have utilized area resources for thousands of years. The Ancestral Puebloan ("anasazi") culture is the most conspicuous, but evidence of other cultures, including Paleo-Indian, Fremont and Paiute are present. The Hole-in-the-Rock trail and historic site is a reminder of Mormon pioneer heritage and uranium mining claims date from the boom of the 1940's and 50's.
If you encounter archaeological or historical sites, please treat these irreplaceable resources with care. Do not camp in or near these sites nor climb on them. Resist touching petroglyphs or pictographs. Collecting pieces of pottery, arrowheads or any other item is against the law which is strictly enforced. Heavy penalties may be imposed. Remember that your descendants will also surely want to learn from and enjoy these places.
Wildlife: The rather sterile appearance of canyon country belies the wealth of animal life that it hosts. Blacktailed jackrabbits, ravens and other birds, and a variety of small lizards are the most common animals encountered. Watch for collared lizards which are very patient and offer unusual photo opportunities.
Large mammals, such as mule deer, beaver, and coyotes may be spotted occasionally. A small population of desert bighorn sheep inhabit the rugged canyons and slickrock mesas east of the river, but they are rarely seen.
While not frequently seen, scorpions and rattlesnakes are present. The best precautions against an unpleasant experience are to avoid reaching into piles of leaves or under logs or rocks and to check your boots and pack before putting them on each morning.
Wildflowers: Plant communities vary from pinyon-juniper woodlands in higher elevations to riparian zones where Fremont cottonwoods and willows predominate. In between are blackbrush/Indian rice grass, shadscale, and sagebrush communities. Among the most unique sights are the "hanging gardens" found clinging to sandstone walls where seeps provide plentiful water. Delicate maidenhair fern is the most common plant found here.
Springtime presents delightful opportunities to photograph and enjoy such wildflower species as the claret cup, cliffrose and Fremont barberry, while shooting-stars, scarlet gilia and bearded beardtongue bloom through the summer.
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