The Teton Range dominates Grand Teton National Park, attracting the attention of all who pass through Jackson Hole. The geologic processes that resulted in mountain building and sculpting also have determined where plants grow in the park. Herbivores—plant-eating animals like moose, mule deer and elk—occur where their food source exists. Carnivores—meat eating animals like bears, coyotes and weasels—follow the herbivores they prey upon. Geologic events created the dramatic scenery of Jackson Hole and indirectly account for the distribution and abundance of wildlife and plants found here.

The Tetons owe their existence to movement along a fault found where the mountains meet the valley. Starting 5 - 9 million years ago, movement along the fault with massive earthquakes occurred every thousand years or so. The mountain block uplifted on the west side of the fault while the valley block dropped-down east of the fault. Today the mountains rise more than a mile above Jackson Hole, with total displacement of 30,000 feet along the fault.

Ice performed the sculpting and carving of the Tetons. As recently as 15,000 years ago, small mountain glaciers or rivers of ice flowed from high elevation cirques and gouged out U-shaped canyons between the peaks. Mountain glaciers spilled from the canyons to the valley floor, forming basins occupied today by lakes like Leigh, Jenny, Bradley, Taggart and Phelps. Ridges of glacial debris, called moraines, surround these lakes and mark the edge of the glacier's flow.

While small glaciers flowed in the Teton Range, a massive glacier covered much of what is now Yellowstone National Park 25,000 years ago. This river of ice flowed south, forming the depression that Jackson Lake fills today, and carried debris as far as Snake River Overlook, eight miles north of Moose on Highway 26-89-191. Today moraines support forests of lodgepole pine and other conifers. Elk and black bear seek refuge and shade in morainal forests and graze in nearby meadows during cooler parts of the day.

When the climate warmed and glacial ice melted, water broke through the moraines and swirled south through the valley, carrying away soil. Today the southern part of Jackson Hole contains poor, dry, rocky soils. Only vegetation like sagebrush and certain grasses and wildflowers can thrive in such desert like conditions. Despite the hot and dry conditions, some mammals and birds favor the sagebrush flats. Bison graze on grasses growing among the sagebrush, while pronghorns eat sagebrush itself. Sage grouse, large chicken-like birds, eat sagebrush buds.

For the past 10,000 years or so, the Snake River has cut through glacial moraines and flowed from Jackson Lake to the southern end of Jackson Hole. Old river terraces paralleling today's Snake River indicate that the Snake carried much more water in the past.

Along the Snake River grow cottonwoods and blue spruces where bald eagles nest. Beavers occasionally dam side channels of the Snake River, establishing ponds that Canada geese and ducks use for nesting and feeding. Moose and beavers eat willows that flourish in wetlands along the river. Willows and other wetland plants provide cover and nest sites for a multitude of songbirds.

As you explore Grand Teton National Park, read its landscape. Note the work of glaciers on the mountains and canyons and the old river terraces carved in the past by the Snake River. Watch for wildlife. The presence of wildlife provides clues to the ancient processes that formed and shaped this area.

The diversity of wildlife communities in Grand Teton National Park and the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway complements the spectacular scenery. Part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the two National Park Service areas offer wildlife a variety of habitats. Each habitat must supply the basic needs of wildlife: food, water, cover and living space. Familiarity with the habitats and habits of park and parkway wildlife results in increased viewing opportunities.

Habitat Types

Sagebrush
The most widespread habitat type in the park, sagebrush flats occur on dry, porous soils. More than 100 species of grasses and wildflowers grow along with abundant sagebrush. Lack of cover makes large animals conspicuous. Look for pronghorns, coyotes, bison, badgers, elk and Uinta ground squirrels.

Forests
From treeline to valley floor, forests provide cover and food for many mammal species. Lodgepole pines dominate, but forests also contain firs, aspens and spruces. Look for elk, mule deer, martens, red squirrels, black bears and snowshoe hares.

Rivers, Lakes and Ponds
Aquatic habitats and adjacent forests, marshes and meadows fulfill the needs of many forms of wildlife. Diverse and abundant vegetation offers excellent food and cover. Water is plentiful. Look for moose, river otters, beavers, muskrats, coyotes, bison and mule deer.

Where to Look for Wildlife

Colter Bay
The roads and trails in the Colter Bay area provide views of a wide array of mammals. Deer feed at the edge of conifer forests. Uinta ground squirrels flourish in dry sagebrush meadows, while red squirrels chatter incessantly from conifer forests. Alert observers catch occasional glimpses of snowshoe hares and martens in the conifer forests. Trails in the Colter Bay area lead to ponds inhabited by beavers, muskrats, waterfowl and sometimes river otters; hiking may also provide views of moose and elk.

Willow Flats
The extensive freshwater marsh between Jackson Lake Dam and Colter Bay can be viewed from the back deck of Jackson Lake Lodge and the Willow Flats Overlook, 1/4 mile south of the lodge. Shrubby willows provide browse for moose. In evening and early morning elk graze on grasses growing in large patches among willow stands. Beavers have created ponds by damming streams through-out Willow Flats; beaver ponds also harbor muskrats and waterfowl.

Oxbow Bend
A cut-off meander of the Snake River is one mile east of Jackson Lake Junction. Slow-moving water provides habitat for fish such as suckers and trout, which become food for river otters, beavers (at dawn and dusk) and musk-rats. Moose browse on abundant willows at the water's edge. Elk occasionally graze in the open aspen groves to the east.

Teton Park Road from Signal Mountain to South Jenny Lake
Extensive sagebrush flats are interspersed with stands of lodgepole pines and aspens. Pronghorn gather in small groups in the flats where they browse on sagebrush. At dawn and dusk look for elk grazing on grasses and wildflowers growing among the sagebrush. Bison occasionally may be found between Signal Mountain and North Jenny Lake Junction. Please park in turnouts or pull vehicle onto the road shoulder while watching wildlife.

Timbered Island
A forested ridge surrounded by sagebrush lies southeast of Jenny Lake. Small bands of pronghorns, fastest North American land animal, forage on sagebrush. Elk leave the shade of the forest at dusk to eat grasses growing among the sagebrush.

Snake River
From Jackson Lake Dam south, the riparian area along the Snake River attracts a variety of wildlife. Elk and bison graze in grassy meadows along the river. Bison also eat grasses in the sagebrush flats on the benches above the river. Beavers and moose eat willows that line the waterway.

Blacktail Ponds
This turnout is located 0.5 mile north of Moose on Highway 26-89-191. Old beaver ponds have filled in and now support grassy meadows where elk graze during cooler parts of the day. Moose browse on willows growing along the river.

Hikes

Two Ocean Lake and Emma Matilda Lake Trails
Numerous elk summer in this vicinity, feeding on meadow grasses during cooler parts of the day; open forests provide refuge for elk during hot summer days. Moose browse on willows growing along the lakeshore. Mule deer, coyotes, black and grizzly bears, martens and red squirrels also frequent this area.

Cascade Canyon and Death Canyon Trails
Look and listen for pika and marmots in boulder fields along the trails. Moose browse on willows and other shrubs growing along creeks. Black bears frequent both canyons. Mule deer are occasionally seen at canyon mouths.

Taggart Lake and Beaver Creek Trails
Willows growing along Beaver Creek provide food for moose. Elk graze on lush grasses and deer browse on shrubs that proliferated since the area burned in 1985.

List of Mammals

a Abundant likely to be seen in appropriate habitat and season.
c Common frequently seen in appropriate habitat and season.
u Uncommon seen irregularly in appropriate habitat and season.
r Rare unexpected even in appropriate habitat and season.
x Accidental out of known range, or reported only once or twice.
? Questionable verification unavailable.

Abundance categories are based on the park and parkway wildlife database, research projects and observations by biologists and naturalists.

Etiquette for Wildlife Observers and Photographers

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