TEASDALE, Utah-- Many, many mountain bikers from far and wide think the single track trails and slickrock country around Moab, Utah are the best in the world for pursuing their passion. This glut of bike riders tends to add a rather social aspect to biking near Moab, whether or not one feels sociable. Thus, for privacy seeking bike riders, the nearby Capitol Reef National Park area is all the more bodacious, for it offers equally outstanding biking terrain and a noticeable lack of fellow pedalers.

Some people, including the author of a highly regarded reference book on mountain biking in Utah, consider the Cathedral Valley Loop, east of the national park, one of the premier mountain bike rides anywhere. It covers 65 miles, with elevations varying by as much as 2140 feet, and is best accomplished in three days. Don't try this challenging ride during rainy weather; or you'll probably and up slipping and sliding on foot, trying to push your bikethrough the copious mud. Four-wheel drive vehicle support is a wise idea, as is alerting the Capitol Reef Ranger Station to your plans in this remote, isolated and incomparably beautiful area of rock monoliths and moon-like a landscape.

The route starts 12 miles east of the Capitol Reef Visitor Center on UT 24, then north on Cathedral Valley Road, across the usually-shallow Fremont River. After going up and down short steep slopes, it climbs into scenic terrain overlooking the vast, 100-mile long uplift of terraced rock known as the Waterpocket Fold, and briefly crosses the boundary back into Capitol Reef National Park. You might want to camp in this area the first night. The route then climbs back through the National Park for another 12 miles, before swinging back on a park road 26 miles from UT 24, and over varied, difficult terrain in Upper Cathedral Valley. It then heads down into Lower Cathedral Valley, and up again over step-like stretches to a ridge-top approximately 55 miles from the start -- a good place for another campsite. The third stretch covers more strenuous rugged terrain, along with more great views, that finally leads to back to UT 24, north of the starting point.

This is a serious outing, requiring a well-orchestrated strategy and logistical support to make that plan work. Shorter biking routes within Cathedral Valley are also possible for day trips, provided you plan for van shuttles. For more specific details contact park rangers at Capitol Reef National Park and consult the book Mountain Biking in the Four Corners Region by Michael McCoy (The Mountaineers).

Notom-Bullfrog Road, a 60-mile-long dirt road along the east side of Waterpocket Fold, is good for less strenuous biking than Cathedral Valley. It's more level, and accessible, and this means you'll probably share the road with at least some cars, though probably few bike riders. It starts nine miles east of the Capitol Reef Visitor Center on UT 24. About 30 miles south of UT 24 it intersects with the Burr Trail Road, which traverses the lower end of the Waterpocket Fold across the southern portion of Capitol Reef National Park. If you continue south on the Notom Road, in another 30 miles it reaches Bullfrog Marina on Lake Powell.

Burr Trail Road is also good for biking, either west from the Notom-Bullfrog Road, which begins with a dizzying, vertical, switchback ascent of the Waterpocket Fold, then levels off considerably, or from Boulder in the east. It's a 40-mile-long, partly paved route through rock-walled canyons, which does see a fair amount of vehicular traffic. Well-marked side roads are plentiful and good bets for biking terrain.

UT Scenic Byway 12, running south from UT 24 in Torrey, provides a good biking route and access through Boulder to the Burr Trail Road. Between Torrey and Boulder, it offers a sinuous ride over 45 miles of mountainous terrain, topping out at 9,200 feet on Summit Mountain Pass.

From Boulder, the road drops down through canyon country for 30 miles into the town of Escalante. Just about any of the dirt roads diverging from UT 12 are generally worthy of further exploration by bike, too.

Numerous bike routes branch off into the mountainous area north of Escalante, off Hell's Backbone Road, or south of Escalante, off Hole-in-the-Rock Road, which leads to Escalante River Canyons National Monument, America's newest national monument. For additional information contact BLM Teasdale or Escalante district offices.

If You Go . . .

The best time of year to visit Capitol Reef may be in the fall.

Early Mormon settlers originally chose to farm this area around 100 years ago for the good year-round water flows from the Fremont River. Apple and pear orchards they planted are still thriving today -- maintained by the park service. Around September, the orchards are brimming with fruit, which visitors may pick for $.50 per pound.

Pedal Pusher Bike Tours, 151 West Main Street, PO Box 79, Torrey, UT 84775, 801/425-3378, fax 801/425-3378, can provide bike rentals or tours, as well as information about area biking.

Buffalo Jack's Trading Post, Jct. UT 12 and UT 24, Torrey, UT 84775, 800/999-2000, rents bikes by the hour or daily, provides shuttle service to a from trail heads, can provide maps and information, biking supplies and accessories.

Escalante Outfitters & Bunkhouse (310 West Main Street, PO Box 158, Escalante, UT 84726, 801/826-4266) offers mountain bike tours and shuttles, specializing in the Escalante River Canyons National Monument. The tiny Torrey area offers some excellent places to stay and eat within close proximity to the Capitol Reef National Park.

SkyRidge Bed & Breakfast, PO Box 750220, Torrey, UT 84775, 801/425-3222 (phone & fax), feels like a western art gallery, with modern book-filled rooms, with hot tubs. Highly recommended.

Cockscomb Inn B&B;, Box B, Teasdale, UT 84773, 801/425-3511 (phone & fax), is a cozy refurbished old home with guest rooms.

Cafe Diablo, in Torrey, 801/425-3070, serves unlikely, imaginative, delectable southwestern food. It's clean, and unlike certain other local establishments that serve Mormon proscriptions against stimulants along with your meal, they do not burn the coffee. It is definitely the best restaurant in the area, if not the state.

For area information contact Wayne County Travel Council, PO Box 7, Teasdale, UT 84773, 800/858-7951.