More than 730 miles of trails through Glacier and 190 miles through Waterton provide many opportunities for both short hikes and extended backpacking trips. So get outta the car! Even a simple summer afternoon hike gives visitors glimpse of the park that scenic drives can't match.

Since Glacier/Waterton is so huge, a good way to get a -- handle the different regions. The first split to think about is the Continental Divide.

The area to the west of the Divide is an echo of the Pacific Northwest; it's rainier than the east side, and has a lower general elevation. The Lake McDonald area, as the western gateway to the park, is the most developed area. Hikes here are pleasant, but because of heavy forest, you'll catch very few views until you reach the treeline. The North Fork area to the north is particularly reminiscent of the Pacific Northwest. Hikers can go for a long way along the forest floor before they can see above the treetops. The Southern Sector is a wild, seldom-visited part of the park. Hikes here tend to last for several days since hikers need to transverse at least 7 miles of foothills to reach the peaks of the divide. This is a good area for horse packing. Trails frequently connect to the Two Medicine area on the other side.

East side of the Divide the land is drier and generally higher. It's perhaps typified by the Many Glacier area, which was originally developed as"America's Little Switzerland." Think soaring alpine peaks and crystalline lakes, especially Lake Sherburne. Two Medicine to the south of Many Glacier on the other side of the of the Hudson Bay Divide, features equally dramatic peaks, lakes, as well as waterfalls. North of Two Medicine, the St. Mary area is made very accessible via the Going-to-the-Sun Highway. This area has many services and facilities, as well as opportunties for casual hikes and lake boating.

Jumping back over Many Glacier, the Belly River Country is one of North America's great wilderness areas. This region is accessible only by trail. Hikers here find themselves surrounded by ridges covered with spruce and lodgepole pines, witnesses to abundant wildlife, especially on the valley floor where elk and deer forage. There is no Belly River Ranger Station. You must already have a permit before venturing into this area. The Highline and Waterton Lake area lies at the northern edge of Glacier, along the Continental Divide. Highline is closed to horse traffic from Logan Pass to Granite Park. This area offers short hikes and longer hikes into Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada. On the map, Waterton looks more developed than Glacier (it even has a golf course!), but it is possible to get away from the development into country that is high and rugged and isolated.

If you've got the time and the itch, there are extended hikes to consider, the premiere perhaps being the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail. This trail is 3,100 mile journey along the "spine" of North America from the Canadian to the Mexican borders.

But hey, whether you clutching Grandma's arm along a quarter mile nature trail, going out for a leg stretching day hike, or sinking into a wilderness sojourn, Glacier will amaze you. It's that kind of place.

Overnight Trips

If you wish to camp in the backcountry, you will need a backcountry camping permit, which you can get at Apgar, St. Mary, and major ranger stations. Half of these permits are set aside on a "first-come" basis. The other half are available through advance reservations using a special form that you can get by calling the park office. The park is charging $20 for processing this form. So if there's a hike that you've set your heart on, it couldn't hurt to put dibs on it. Beginning in 1998, the park is expected to charge a $4 per night, per person backcountry camping fee.

Eric Molvar's article, Rambling the Rockies, gives the scoop on four of the best backpacking trips, including Glacier's portion of the Continental Divide Trail.

Transportation

Park concessioners offer shuttles for hikers. Rocky Mountains Transportation operates shuttles to all major trailheads on the Going-to-the-Sun Road from July 1 through Labor Day. Shuttle schedules are available at bus stops and visitor centers, or you can make reservations by calling (406) 862-2539. Glacier Park, Inc., offers a morning Hiker's Shuttle from the Many Glacier Hotel to trailheads at Siyeh Bend, Logan Pass and the Loop. Hikers should inquire at the Many Glacier hotel desk.

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