Wasatch-Cache National Forest
Rock Climbing
This page is intended to give new and/or visiting climbers a feel for climbing in Logan Canyon. Logan Canyon offers many climbs of varying degrees of difficulty and quality on limestone rock. The major climbing areas are identified and a selection of suggested routes are given, ranging from 5.6 top roped climbs to 5.14 bolted sport climbs. Climbers from the Cache Valley hope you enjoy your visit to our area.Please respect the climbing and repelling zones and the climbing ethics listed in this document!
We all have worked very hard with the Forest service and other interested people to develop a policy of maintaining climbing as well as protecting resources.
A RECOMMENDED SELECTION
OF LOGAN CANYON CLIMBS
Second Practice Wall: A designated top-roping area. Bolt anchors are available across the top and slings are needed for belays. Eleven climbs have been named ranging from 5.4 to 5.10d.
Fucoidal Quartzite: Over 30 climbs are available, a mixture of naturally protected crack climbs and bolted face climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.12.
China Wall: Most of this wall is dosed to rappelling climbing. There are a number of bolted sport climbs available for climbing ranging 5.10 to 5.14.
385/Chimney Crag: A sport climbing area with 14 climbs over 5.10a. Some of Logan's best routes and rock are located here.
RATING: 5.6
Cruisin: 2nd Practice Wall, Top-roped (rake trail to right to top to 4th set of bolts -2). Climb left to right angling crack as an undercling/lieback.
RATING: 5.7
Free Solo: 2nd Practice Wall, Top-roped (rake trail to right to top to 4th set of bolts - 2). Climb up blocky holds to angling face with right facing dihedral.
Preston's pinnacle - East Face: Preston Valley Pinnacle, Natural Protection Glint, Scramble up hillside 600' to base, climb face or crack, move left to surmount roof.
RATING: 5.8
Mighty Mouse: Fucoidal Quartzite West Tower, Natural Protection Glint. Climb face and then white chalky looking lieback crack to finish. Walk off.
Tennis Ball: Fucoidal Quartzite, B, (#2), Scramble up hillside right of East Tower to short (3O') black face climb. Lower off chains.
RATING: 5.9
Kentucky Fried Penguin: Fried Wall, Bolted Climb (#6). Climb white chalk face next to road. Lower off chains.
RATING: 5.10
Bonnie (10a): Monkey Wrench Buttress, Bolted Climb (#4). Face climb using large pockets. Lower off chains.
Cushions (10b): Fucoidal Quartzite, Natural Protection & Bolts, #3. Scramble right of the Fast Tower to large amphitheater, to arete on right side. Climb thin cracks and face. Descend by rapping the Black Knight.
Gills Grace (10c-d): Fucoidal Quartzite East Tower, Natural Protection Glint. Climb obvious left facing dihedral to a large roof. Jam and lieback to good ledge on top.
RATING: 5.11
Conventional Arms (11a): 385/Chimney Crag, Bolted Climb (#8). Climb begins on south facing side of large white buttress in bottom of chimney. Climb up and left to ledge on arete and follow arete up. Lower off chains.
Begging For Bolts (1 la-b): Fucoidal Quartzite Fast Tower, Bolted Climb (#12). 15' left of Gills Grace, climb bolted face through 2 overhanging sections. Lower off chains or walk off left.
All Shook Up (11a-b): Graceland, Bolted Climb (#9). Climb the vertical face on the left of the first two bolts before moving straight up on small ledges. A very sustained climb with a few good rests. You can rappel off using one rope.
Limestone Cowboy (11d): Fucoidal Quartzite Middle Tower, Bolted Climb (#11). Face climb just left of the Middle Tower proper. Lower off chains.
RATING: 5.12
Nuclear Fingers (11d/12a): 385/Chimney Crag. Bolted Climb (#9), Overhanging face climb begins on right side of white west facing buttress. Climb to ledge, move left and up face. Lower off chains.
Pale Face (12d): 385/Chimney Crag, Bolted Climb (#11). Climb begins on south facing side of large white buttress in bottom of chimney (left of Nuclear Fingers). Climb face. Lower off chains.
Sportfest (12d): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#10). A connect the bolts traverse climb. Climb horizontally using solution pockets.
Vulcan Crawl (13): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#6). Follow path along river to right edge of overhang, climb goes underneath roof and then pulls roof using one and two finger pockets. Lower off chains.
Big Brawl (13c/ d): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#9). Another overhanging traverse that has some great pockets before pulling the roof. The start is the second set of bolts from the left side of the roof.
Tweek (14a): China Wall Roof, Bolted Climb (#7). Climb begins at back of the roof. Upside down traverse using small finger pockets and then pull roof going straight up to anchors to rappel off.
The ratings used in this guide are based on the standard Yosemite Decimal System ratings. However, one must remember that many of the newer climbs have seen few ascents and the ratings are usually the opinion of a few people. Ratings may change in the future based on a consensus of climbers opinions. Climbs may change in rating due to the nature of the rock. Holds may appear or disappear with each climbing season due to the instability of the rock. For more detailed route descriptions and directions, you can purchase Logan Canyon Climbing guide books from local sporting goods stores.
DISTRICT CLIMBING
AND RAPPELLING POLICY
This resource protection policy was the result of a cooperative effort between local climbers, botanists, conservationists and the Logan Ranger District. Copies of the entire document are available from the Logan Ranger District office. Because of National interest, Regional policies may be developed that would supersede portions of this policy.
The Purpose Of This Policy
1. To protect rare plant species and their habitats.
2. To manage resource impacts.
3. To provide quality climbing opportunities where they do not conflict with resource protection.
Provisions Common To All Zones
Rock alteration by chipping, chiseling, drilling or gluing of holds to improve a route IS PROHIBITED! The intentional removal of live vegetation from any cliff face, top or base IS PROHIBITED! The installation of bolts with battery power drills is allowed on the District, EXCEPT IN WILDERNESS! Fixed protection should be of high quality and must be camouflaged. Brightly colored slings WILL NOT BE LEFT on the rock! Climbing or rappelling IS PROHIBITED on Logan Cave cliff. Rappelling from the top of China Wall or in the Greenhouse Wall area IS PROHIBITED!
Local bulletin boards will have maps of the following zones:
1. Low Sensitivity. The majority of the District.
2. Moderate Sensitivity. Visually sensitive Logan Canyon.
3. High Sensitivity. Maguire primrose habitat. (Climbing and rappelling will not be allowed within fifty feet of any T&E; plant species. Includes provisions for the removal of routes with potential to negatively impact T&E; species.)
4. Extremely Sensitive. (T&E; plant concerns). Extremely important seed sources for the Maguire primrose. Rock climbing and rappelling are not allowed.
5. Wilderness. (Mt. Naomi and Wellsville Mountain Wildernesses). Bolts CANNOT be placed using either motorized, electric or mechanical drills providing increased mechanical advantage over the standard one piece (Rawl type) drill holder. Bolts and fixed protection are discouraged.
A MESSAGE FROM THE FOREST SERVICE
Logan Canyon is a National Forest Scenic Byway and home of the Maguire primrose. Because the primrose is listed as threatened by the Endangered Species Act, the Forest Service must manage any activity that might adversely impact it.
In 1991, the US Fish & Wildlife Service (USF&WS;) recommended climbing not be allowed on the cliffs in the canyon because of the primrose. Climbers pointed out that most of the routes were on the unvegetated and steep portions of these cliffs where no protected plants grow. They suggested cliffs be zoned to protect the primrose and other sensitive plants.
"All of the cliffs in Logan Canyon have Forest Service sensitive plants on them."
-District Range Conservationist
Sensitive plants while not threatened or endangered could be severely impacted by too many routes too close together. We strongly recommend that routes be spaced at least 50' apart Please exercise restraint in developing new routes.
"The further apart climbing routes are, the less chance
there will be further restrictions in the future."
-Forest Ecologist
Climbing and rappelling within 50 feet of a threatened or endangered plants is not permitted on the District. This closes about 10% of the existing routes due to their proximity to the primrose or the Smith violet.
"Currently, climbing and rappelling are not permitted on most of the
China Wall or on the Greenhouse Wall and adjacent cliffs."
-District Recreation Forester
The Forest Service and USF&WS; will be writing biological assessments to determine how the rare plants in Logan Canyon will be affected by this policy as well as monitoring the effectiveness of this policy. Respect the climbing zones in Logan Canyon. If you see others climbing in sensitive areas, please diplomatically educate them or direct them to the nearest climber's information board.
"Without the very positive and proactive approach taken by the climbing community, large areas would probably now be closed to climbing in Logan Canyon."
-District Recreation Forester
We look forward to a continued cooperative relationship with the climbing community.
-The Logan Distric Ranger,
Wasatch-Cache National Forest.
If you have any questions or concerns regarding climbing on the Logan Ranger District or would like to be on the climbing mailing list, please write to:
Logan District Ranger
860 N 1200 E
Logan, UT 84321
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