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Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park
Climbing
By Kimberly Lisagor

Peak bagging isn't the area's only draw for climbers. Sequoia and Kings Canyon boast Yosemite-quality rock, with one major difference: a virtually nonexistent climbing scene. If you're into first ascents, there's still plenty of rock to be conquered. And bolted routes range from 5.5 to the plus side of 5.11.

Look for Kings Canyon climbs in the Cedar Grove region, mostly along Bubbs Creek. You'll find Charlito Dome and Charlotte Dome on the left side of the Bubbs Creek Trail, just before it crosses Charlotte Creek. It's a long hike in, but the multi-pitch possibilities are worth the haul.

The easiest site to access in Sequoia is Moro Rock, just off the Generals Highway near Giant Forest. The west face offers 1,000 vertical feet of cracks and knobs. For a more remote climb, hike the High Sierra Trail to Angel Wings — at about 2,000 feet, this is the park's biggest wall. It's an 18-mile hike from Crescent Meadow.

From the big walls to the bolted sport climbs, it's easy to see why Sequoia & Kings Canyon are included in the list of best national parks for rock climbing.

Other Sequoia highlights: Little Baldy and the quartzite Hospital Rock, both off the Generals Highway. Ice climbers can head for the watchtower by hiking to the end of the Tokopah Falls Trail, which starts just outside the Lodgepole Campground, finishing high over the Kaweah River.

The park doesn't sell any climbing gear or guides, so come prepared. The book to buy is Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon by Sally Moser, Greg Vernon, and David Hickey. Pick up any gear you need in Bakersfield or Fresno.


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[from Outside magazine]