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Adapted from
Cross Country Skiing in Yosemite
by Tim Messick

Across the Winter Wilderness of Tuolumne Meadows
Cross-Country Skiing in Yosemite
Elizabeth Lake, The Whale & Rafferty Creek Loop and the Mono-Parker Pass Area

Cross Country Skiing T o some people, visiting Tuolumne in the winter is even more appealing than during the rest of the year. The road from the town of Lee Vining on the east side of Yosemite National Park, is closed for the sixty miles west to Crane Flat and Tuolumne Meadows and so is left alone with winter snows. For the winter visitor, there are no crowds to deal with, and a blanket of snow protects the fragile landscape underfoot. Ski touring to Tuolumne in winter is a serious undertaking and plenty of time should be given to preparing and planning for the trip. Blister, frost nipped feet, altitude sickness, and hypothermia can all become serious problems for the unprepared or inexperienced. Safe passage through avalanche country requires knowledge not encountered on most simpler undertakings. With the right equipment and winter backcountry skills, a trip to Tuolumne Meadows can be a great experience.

Most people ski to Tuolumne by way of the Snow Creek Trail from Yosemite Valley and on to the Meadows via Tioga Road. This is usually the easiest route to Tuolumne and can require at least two days of skiing to complete. Others start from Highway 395 at the town of Lee Vining, on the eastern slope of the Sierra. After hiking up to snow line, ski up the grade towards Tioga Pass. The grade is steep, with the trip to the 10,000-foot Tioga Pass requiring a gain of about 3,600 feet in twelve miles. From the pass it is another eight miles of mostly downhill skiing to Tuolumne Meadows. This is a somewhat shorter route to the Meadows, but can seem more difficult than a western approach due to the more extreme avalanche danger. The Tioga Road from Crane Flat to Tuolumne is a long thirty-nine mile trek, but isn't skied frequently from Crane Flat to the Snow Creek Trail junction. Don't expect to see many, if any, people on that particular stretch of road.

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Many winter travelers to Tuolumne Meadows stay at the "old" Visitor Center, located just off the main road on the west side of the Tuolumne River bridge. There are electric lights, a wood burning stove and bunk beds, available on a first-come-first-served basis. Some winter visitors to Tuolumne stay up to two weeks, which is the maximum time given on a wilderness permit in the park. This helps cut down on the impact created by growing number of skiers in the backcountry. At times, the old Visitor Center bunks are full, so don't count on there being an open bunk. Snow camping is the only alternative. (One of the warmer areas to make camp is across the meadow, near Soda Springs. That part of the meadow gets the morning sun first, and gets prolonged sun throughout the day.) There are park rangers stationed during the winter near the Tuolumne Summer Lodge, about one mile west from the old Visitor Center, at the summer Ranger Office.

The Rangers patrol the area, record snow and weather data, and are happy to assist skiers with questions. It is recommended that you check in with them upon your arrival. As a somewhat bizarre feature to the otherwise wilderness atmosphere, there are pay phones located outside of the visitor center. They do not require change to reach the operator.

Most of the tours described for the Tuolumne area are fairly long and usually difficult. They assume a base camp in the Meadows area. Know you limits. Before heading out on longer tours, make sure that you can do shorter ones, for your own safety and peace of mind. It is not a bad idea to carry enough equipment to survive an unscheduled bivouac, just in case something goes wrong.

On a trip to Tuolumne you will probably see signs of avalanches along the way. A couple of the spots to watch for avalanches are along the Toga Road from Olmstead Point to the east side of Pywiack Dome and along the high open areas by Tioga Pass. At the west end of Tuolumne Meadows, where the road drops down before Marmot Dome, small but serious slab avalanches sometimes cut loose. Here they have been known to travel through the trees, across the road and into the meadow. It is a good practice to use an avalanche cord (or electronic avalanche beeper) when you encounter uncertain avalanche situations. USGS maps and a compass should be used when there is a question about route finding.

Having plenty of food and water along is important for fighting fatigue and hypothermia. Temperatures in Tuolumne can vary greatly during the winter and it is not uncommon for temperatures to remain well below freezing for weeks at a time. Cold can make snow camping a real chore.

Whether you are snow camping your way to Lee Vining or Mammoth Lakes, or just staying at the visitor center for a few days, you're sure to enjoy your stay in this high country atmosphere. Just be ready for whatever Mother Nature may have in store.

Elizabeth Lake, The Whale,
& Rafferty Creek Loop

S ki the Elizabeth Lake Trail to Elizabeth Lake as for the tour to Unicorn Peak. Continue around the left side of the lake. The long, ridged peak seen above is known to some as "The Whale." Follow up the obvious drainage to the "Whale's Back." During times of high avalanche danger, this section can be treacherous. Be prepared to abandon the tour if avalanche conditions seem unstable. Follow the ridge up over the summit. Beware of cornice buildup, taking care not to get too close to the edge - in places it is very narrow. Drop down the east ridge, winding down and around to the left. Johnson Peak, now to the left, is also an excellent mountain to ski. Scope out the Rafferty Creek drainage while high enough to get a good view of the best way down through the trees to the Rafferty Creek Trail. You will wind up at the head of Lyell Canyon and the Lyell Fork. From here it is a short ski back to the visitor center along the Lyell Fork of the river.

Quality: * * *

Difficulty: *

Mileage, each way: 6 miles

Average Skier Time, each way: 3.5 hours


Mono-Parker Pass Area

L eave the Tioga Road at the Mono-Parker Pass trailhead, six miles east from the Winter Visitor Center. Most of the trail signs and blazes will be covered with snow, but there are "T" blazes on the trees to help you find the way. Ski along Parker Creek, eventually traversing up to the ridge on the left. The views up the canyon are astounding. You are surrounded by 11,000- to 13,000-foot high peaks, and the avalanche danger can be high. Now on the slopes of Mt. Gibbs, traverse higher, heading for Mono Pass. On the west side of the pass, old, collapsed cabins, once used by miners and sheep herders can be seen, giving the area a lonesome and eerie feeling. Bloody Canyon and Sardine Lakes lie on the east side of the pass. (Years ago, Mono Pass was a popular Indian crossing to the eastern slopes of the Sierra.) Leaving Mono Pass, climb over the obvious hump on the right and drop down into Parker Creek, without skiing all the way to Parker Pass. From here it is an easy ski down the canyon. Pick up your tracks lower down and follow them back to the Tioga Road and the visitor center.

Quality: * * *

Difficulty: *

Mileage, each way: 10.5 miles

Average Skier Time, each way: 5 hours


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