The Fond du Lac River follows a sinuous course, winding its way north and west from Wollaston Lake to Black Lake, about 170 miles downstream.

In 1924, C. S. MacDonald made a survey trip for the Topographical Survey of the Department of the Interior from the Pas, Manitoba, to Lake Athabasca. In his report, he noted that between Wollaston Lake and Stony Rapids on Lake Athabasca, "there are twenty-eight rapids or falls, many of which must be portaged." My personal experience is that on the course of the Fond du Lac I have only portaged at three locations, two of which are mandatory. I have seen the river at different water levels and found that there is always one way or another to run or line all the other rapids.

River near Manitou Falls

As noted before, the rapids tend to be long and shallow and often you have to"bump and grind" your way over the shallow spots. There are a number of ledges along the course of the river — all easily avoided if you keep your eyes peeled and have good back-ferry skills. The current isn't "pushy" and if you have a modicum of whitewater skill, it is a real fun ride to Black Lake. The first portage on the Fond du Lac is a ledge-waterfall about a mile and a half below Thompson Rapids (marked on 1:250,000 map 64L Wollaston Lake), which I lined over on the extreme river right on one occasion. The portage here is on the left and is excellent after you scramble up the fifteen-foot, near-vertical sandbank.

The next mandatory portage is at Manitou Falls (marked on the same map), about a half mile below the first portage. The trail is on river left and is a short 150-yard carry. Stopping here overnight or just for lunch will definitely be a trip highlight. The last portage is at Burr Falls and starts on river right just above a large, midstream island. There are usually a few aluminum fishing boats at this end of the trail used by Dene hunters, so keep your eyes open as the portage is easily missed. This portage is about three-quarters of a mile long; don't be dispirited by the first 100 yards, which wanders through a low, wet bog. After you scramble up the hill from the bog, you find yourself on an excellent sand "highway".

There are many other named and unnamed rapids on the Fond du Lac, and with a little study you will easily find a safe route or a way to line them. Failing either option, you will almost always find a well-traveled portage like the one on river right at Thompson Falls (actually a class 2+ rapid). Remember what I said before — this is a "friendly wilderness."

If you want a very detailed listing of the rapids along the Fond du Lac, contact Ric Driedeger at ric.crco@sk.sympatico.ca. Ric runs Horizons Unlimited and can tell you about the river, rent you canoes, organize your guided trip, book your air flights, provide vehicle shuttles to your put-in — and, for that matter, he will be happy to talk your ear off about paddling Saskatchewan's north.

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