Each stump wears a high white toque. Whipped cream, flung by the wind during last night's snowstorm, coats the trunks of the hardwoods. An avenue of firs, not yet released of their winter weight, modestly spread their fingers to hide the secrets that lay under their skirts. The white spires of the birches are highlighted against the monochromatic tones of winter.

We're both carrying rucksacks, stuffed with comfort and security: sweaters and dry socks, apples and sandwiches, soup in a thermos, fire starter, elastic tape for blisters, a spare ski tip. Not too much weight, to ensure a happy day and a safe return. You're on your own here, and winter nights can go to forty below. It's a comfort to know that there are toilets, and barrels full of essential items, to be found on each of the ski trails.

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In winter, access is limited to the Highway 60 corridor: gasoline, food, and accommodations are only available outside the Park. Advice and information is to be had daily at the gates,and on weekends at the Visitor Centre (which is open daily through Christmas week).

The Mew Lake Campground is open in winter. There is no water, but firewood and electricity are available. There are also eight 'yurts' available for rent here, with furniture and electric heat.

The trail takes us by hidden pools of dark water, which still resist the frost. The woods are silent, save for the occasional chatter of chickadees, and the raucous calls of the jays. Deer tracks lead off into the forest. A flitting shadow makes us look up, to see a patrolling red-tailed hawk, his pinions spread across the sky. Oak leaves, clinging tenaciously, provide splashes of winter colour.

A sudden vicious snow squall flings its darts against our faces, making us glad for our tinted goggles as we approach the trailhead. At end of day, the westering sun drops quickly below a lead-grey sky blanket and turns the world to rose madder.

	Winter Trails The kilometer figure in brackets refers to the trail's starting point along Highway 60. All three groomed cross-country ski trails (Fen Lake, Minnesing, and Leaf Lake) run in loops. Well marked, they offer trips from one kilometer to fifty, a half hour's exercise through a weekend of hard work. Snowshoe trails are also provided, and dogsledding can be arranged. Fen Lake Xcountry Ski Trail. This trail starts at the West Gate, and offers loops of 1 to 8 miles (1.25 to 13 km), with variable difficulty. The short loop is a good beginner's trail. Most of the trail follows old logging roads, and covers your choice of four loops. Brule Lake Dogsledding Trail [15 km] The route covers 14 miles (22 km) of rolling terrain, each way, without any loops. Once you leave Highway 60, you are definitely on your own. Minnising Xcountry Ski Trail [23 km] Here you are offered four loops, covering 3 miles to 14.5 miles (5 to 23 km), of fairly easy skiing, with some difficult sections. Linda Lake Snowshoe Trail [23 km] Suitable for those adventurers who are experienced in winter waterway travel. This route is 5miles (8 km) long, with no loops. Sunday Lake Dogsledding Trail [40 km] Several loops offer you trips of up to 31 miles (50 km), and covering fairly flat, often open terrain. The southwest side of the Park is made up of scrubby marsh and thin forest, and lacks the high ground of the east side.

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