Algonquin Provincial Park
Hiking
By Michael and Alison Goldstein
The woods are perfumed with rotting leaves, that forest smell so unique to autumn. A warm sun chases the morning chill, as Allison and I work our way up a highland trail.
A solitary hiker, high on a ridge,
contemplates the autumn display of
color to be found in Algonquin.
We're back in Algonquin Park for our annual fall weekend of hiking and photography, carefully timed at September's end to see the peak of the colour. The canoe has been abandoned in favour of the hiking boots (always after second thoughts!). Algonquin's annual leaf-peeping season is but a narrow window, between summer and winter. The odd mosquito may still be found, but the geese are rippling vees across the blue sky. How lucky we are, to live only a three-hour drive from one of North America's best attractions.
We would need a week of intensive walking, to cover all thirteen trails that line the Parkway corridor. They range from half a mile to 8 miles in length, and vary from an easy stroll to a rugged climb. It's far more fun to choose only a few, however, and take the time to enjoy them fully. Each one takes the hiker to marvellous autumn vistas of forest and lake, bay and bog. Parking and sanitary facilities may be found at the trailheads, and the trails include information sheets that explain points of interest.
One of the most interesting is the Track & Tower Trail, which exposes the walker to some of the Park's railroad history. At one point, the trail follows part of an old railway line, where the anchor points for a huge log trestle may still be seen. In the gorge, the remains of log cribs, foundation points for the trestle, still exist.
For the serious hiker, who wishes to spend more than several days walking in the Park, there are three backpacking trails, totalling more than 90 miles (140 km).The Western Uplands Trail has several loops, ranging from 20 to 55 miles (32 to 88 km) in length. The Highland Trail has 12 and 22 miles (19 and 35 km) loops. The Eastern Pines Trail, which begins at the Achray Campground on the Park's east side, has 4 and 9 mile (6 and 15 km) loops.
Our rucksacks hold lunch and extra film, rainsuits and spare layers of clothing. We'll start the day in sweatpants, and be down to shorts by noon. The day can end in rain or snow (or both!), or warm sunshine if the gods are kind. Best to be ready.
We stop to eat high on a ridge, overlooking a lake and miles of flamboyant maple forest, all reds and yellows. Far below, a string of heavily-laden canoes ghost across the blue water. Migrating geese voice their haunting farewells, from the heavens above.
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| Hiking Trails
The kilometer figure in brackets refers to the trail's starting point along Highway 60.Mizzy Lake Trail This 7 mile (11 km) trail needs an early start and a full day. It visits 9 ponds and small lakes, along rough ground that is muddy in spring. It offers one of the best chances along the Corridor to see wildlife. [At 15.4 km along Highway 60]Peck Lake Trail An easy walk around a beautiful small lake, which should take less than an hour. This trail usually yields good views of great blue heron during the summer and fall. [At 19.2 km along Highway 60]
Track and Tower Trail This trail covers 5 miles (8 km) of easy walking, with an optional 6 kilometer side trip along an old railway right-of-way. There are spectacular views overlooking Cache Lake, and the chance to see Park railway history, where an old log trestle once existed. An all-day hike, if the long option is taken. [At 25 km along Highway 60]
Centennial Ridges Trail This is a demanding 6 mile (10 km) loop, that offers great views along two high ridges. Requires most of a day, and will take you up and down rolling hills. [At 37.6 km along Highway 60]
Spruce Bog Boardwalk offers 1mile (1.5 km) of easy boardwalk hiking, through typical northern spruce bogs. This two hour walk will yield some good birdwatching. [At 42.5 km along Highway 60]
Western Uplands Backpacking Trail This serious walker's route winds through the Algonquin highlands, and is fantastic in autumn. The terrain varies in difficulty. With loops of 22, 34 and 44 miles (35, 55, and 71 km), you can hike for weeks, and seldom see a soul. [At 3 km along Highway 60]
Brent Crater Trail, Barron Canyon Trail, Berm Lake Trail. These trails are on the northeast side of the park, very far from the usual tourist activity. The trails are accessed from Highway 17, north of Pembroke, Ontario. They provide many miles of varied walking, with wonderful scenery, in a section of the Park where you may feel truly alone.
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