|
from Away.com
Related Guides
Popular Cities in British Columbia
|
DESTINATIONS
Whistler: Heli-Skiing Paradise
Nothing but Vertical
By Todd Shapera
"We ski what nature allows us to ski," Wilkins explained. When avalanche
danger is high, he takes groups on gentle runs with 30-degree slopes.
Today, however, the danger was relatively low, allowing us to ski 40-degree
head walls in bowls with names such as Tremer Side Shoot, Shudder Glacier,
Quiver, Torrey Side Shoot, and Shatter Glacier. Some were so steep that
when Wilkins skied over the lip, he would disappear for several minutes
before coming back into view on more level terrain far below.
Skies, sky, and powder:
Miles to go before we sleep
Reduced to only a swatch of green parka in the distance, he would signal us
with a wave of his pole, one at a time on the more difficult faces.
Repeatedly, we would finish our runs with broad smiles, gasping for breath,
legs burning, and look back, amazed, at our long carvings in the white bowls.
Although always aware we were in a wilderness environment, Wilkins put us
at ease with his confident leadership.In his mid-thirties, he had logged more than a decade of experience as a
member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, including many
winters in heli-ski camps in Canada's interior ranges of the Cariboos and
Monashees. He seemed to know his way around the many ravines, shoots, and
faces of each glacier that we skied.
In a conversation after our trip, it was sobering to learn that the
contents of his heavy pack contained crevasse rescue gear like ropes,
harness, and webbing; as well as avalanche rescue gear and overnight survival gear.
Our group of eight men and two women seemed to straddle the 40-year mark in age and
were fit and passionate about skiing, despite demanding professional lives.
Several were from Europe. Our $400 package guaranteed three runs for a
combined 8,000-10,000 vertical feet of skiing. We completed that portion
in the morning, savored a bag lunch in a beautiful valley named Goat Pass,
then opted for optional extra runs in the afternoon ($40 each).
We would finish our runs with broad smiles, gasping for breath, legs burning, and look back, amazed, at our long carvings in the white bowls.
|
Now that we had proven ourselves, the skiing seemed to get steeper, longer,
and faster—including one narrow chute tucked between a mountain side and
an outcropping of ice and rocks. While some called it a day, I continued,
knowing that in less than two days, I would be putting on a tie and
catching a commuter train. It was now or never.
All but one member of our group opted to pay the extra $20 for fat-boy
powder skis for the extra stability they provide in the backcountry. The
lone exception regretted his intransigence after suffering a number of head
plants on the first run. He readily switched to a spare pair that our
guide had knowingly packed into the helicopter.
As we prepared to descend for our 10th and final run and log the last of
our astounding 29,000 vertical feet for the day, the sun had already
disappeared below the peaks. Clouds of fog had rolled up from the valley,
stopping magically at our feet on the summit. It felt as if we were on a
beach of snow looking out on waves of clouds in the ocean. Now too dark
for most of us to wear goggles, Wilkins assured me that when we reached the
bottom of the run it would still be safe to fly—daylight aviation extends
to one hour past official sundown. In any event, our pilot was rated for
night flying.
Back in the helicopter, the bonding among our group continued with high
fives, glowing faces, and open consideration between several men and women
as to whether this ecstasy had not been among the ultimate of human
pleasures.
* * *
Note: Because of the expense and strenuous nature of heli-skiing, it is a
good idea to try it for a day before making the commitment to go to a
week-long heli-ski camp. Day trippers have the luxury of going at the
end of a ski week when they are strong and acclimated and can try to pick
their day in conjunction with weather forecasts. It is a good idea to talk
to the heli-ski company to determine the abilities of others signed up for
the group that day. This will allow skiers to chose a group that matches
their experience level.
RELATED GORP LINKS
 GORPtravel
GORP Skiing
GORP Canada
|
|
Related Canada Trips
Road Trip Guides
National Park Guides
Hiking Guides
Today's Gear Guy
Gear Guides
[from Outside magazine]
|
advertisement
Sign up for our Travel Deals Newsletter
|
