The trails begins on a flat, dusty footpath in a forest of pines, heading west and then north along Cottonwood Creek. Cross and recross the creek several times before crossing the boundary of the John Muir Wilderness and beginning a steady climb. The trail gains 400 feet in elevation and turns west just before reaching Cottonwood Basin. Continue west through the alpine meadows (avoiding side trails heading north) and skirt Cottonwood Lakes #1 and #2, which in 1998 were opened to catch-and-release fishing for the first time in 32 years (see "A Golden Opportunity").

The trail continues west past Long Lake (5.5 miles, 11,135 feet) and High Lake toward the imposing gray granite walls that ring this basin and begins a thigh-burning climb to New Army Pass. High above timberline, this moonscape is not the place to be caught during an infamous Sierra thunderstorm. From the pass at 11,475 feet, the trail descends to the northwest, entering Sequoia National Park and heading down into the Rock Creek drainage.

Related GORP Resources Inyo National Forest Kings Canyon/Sequoia National Parks John Muir Wilderness Map of the Region

The trail continues north and descends again to idyllic Upper Crabtree Meadow (21.3 miles, 10,320 feet). On a clear day, you'll be able to see Mt. Whitney's spire beckoning on the eastern horizon. Hike on this flat portion northeast from the meadow to a junction with the John Muir Trail and bear right, then continue east past the Crabtree Ranger Station. Begin ascending in earnest, following Whitney Creek past tiny Timberline Lake toward larger Guitar Lake (actually, the resemblance is quite uncanny when viewing the lake from the east), nestled right up against the backside of the towering Eastern Sierras.

Move on to Granite Wonderland

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Matt Purdue is the author of Adventure Guide to Nevada (Hunter).