I hung motionless in the water, sucking air through the gurgling snorkel and straining to see into the blue void. I could feel the warmth of the sun on my back, the caress of the ripples on my bare skin. Around me a few other like-minded adventurers — Viv and my son Trent included — hung in a similar trance. Waiting.

Then things changed. Out of the gloom of 30-foot visibility a giant form materialized, silently and seemingly without effort. A second later it was below me and only then did I realize how quickly it was moving. I snatched a quick breath, then flicked over in a duck dive but already its giant dorsal was under me, just an arm length away. And then I saw its tail, flowing, curving in a sweeping arc towards me and I realized I was already down the back end of this fast moving giant. I hit the surface and powered into my fastest free style, fins helping to power me along — and the giant tail, swinging back through a lazy arc, was the last I saw of this mammoth of the sea as he raced away languidly into the gloom.

Ten more times that morning we did the same thing — that's what you do with whale sharks. What a mind-blowing experience!

Ready to play with the giants

Trip Facts
Difficulty rating: Easy - Moderate
When to go: April - October