If there were a 12-step program for Nepal junkies, I would have to join. After my first trip to this tiny Himalayan kingdom, I realized I was powerless to resist the spell of Nepal. I'm sure there are other places on earth as beautiful, and I know there are mountains nearly as high down in the Andes, but I just can't get over my fascination with Nepal. The mountain villages, the hillside terraces, the miles and miles of trails, the mountain vistas, the astounding diversity of climates and cultures; these are the outwardly obvious features of Nepal that continue to fascinate not only me but also nearly every other person who visits the country. For others it is the chance to climb unnamed crags and peaks, to run the most challenging rivers on earth, to pedal the Himalayas. However, in the end, what most visitors find most fascinating and unforgettable is the timelessness of Nepal. After a week or two on the trail, it's easy to forget that there are such things as cars and televisions and cell phones.

Something fishy: Check out Fishtail Peak.

Kathmandu is a perfect example of everything that is wrong with the world today. Too much traffic, too much noise, too many people. The chaos of Kathmandu is most travelers' first introduction to Nepal, and with its blaring bus horns, smoke-spewing diesel trucks, and teeming masses of shoppers in the bazaars, it can be an utterly overwhelming introduction to a country that many people imagine is nothing but mountain peaks and Shangri-La villages. And although the Kathmandu Valley has many historical buildings and fascinating temples that should not be missed, most people head for the hills as soon as possible.

Although there are other adventures to be had in Nepal, trekking is by far the country's main draw. With few roads and seemingly endless miles of trails, Nepal is a hiker's dream come true. Whether you're interested in a trek of only a few days or a month-long expedition deep into the heart of the Himalayas, there is a route just right for you. Likewise, there are trekking options for every budget, from inn-to-inn treks costing less than $10 per day to fully catered camping treks running $200 or more per day.

With trails that climb straight up mountainsides on stairways of stone, a trek can be a grueling experience if you aren't in good shape. Your enjoyment of a trek will depend on whether you're in good condition when you finally hit the trail. If at all possible, start a regular exercise program months in advance of your trek, and spend as much time on a Stairmaster as you can; when you meet your first Himalayan stairway to the sky, your quadriceps will thank you.

After a couple of weeks on the trail, many people decide it's time for a different perspective on the Himalayas. Any trekking route will provide plenty of opportunities to observe the tumultuous rivers that cascade down from the highest peaks on Earth, and many of the very same rivers that trekkers cross on swinging suspension bridges are also popular rafting rivers. Even if you've never been rafting before, there are rivers here that will provide you with an unforgettable introduction to the sport. On the other hand, if you're an experienced paddler, you'll find Nirvana on Nepal's rivers.

Keep in mind that adventuring in Nepal is often not at all what you had expected. There are few true wilderness areas in the country: Sherpa villages dot the landscape of Sagarmatha National Park, villagers harvest grass in Royal Chitwan National Park and trails are often crowded with caravans of ponies or yaks carrying supplies to distant villages. Trails are often long stone staircases, a fact that has frustrated many a mountain biker with grand plans to pedal to Everest Base Camp. On the rivers, it's not uncommon to find human skulls wedged into logjams; cremations are the most common form of burial in Nepal, and the remains (often not completely combusted) are consigned to rivers, all of which eventually flow into the holy Ganges. Be prepared for the unexpected. In Nepal you never know what lies around the next bend in the trail. Maybe you'll even spot a Yeti.