Some people in East Africa have an aversion to being photographed. They may feel that their privacy is being invaded, that they are in some way being looked down upon, or that religious tenets (for instance, in the case of Muslims) are being violated. Other people, such as the Maasai, normally expect payment in return for being photographed. The Maasai have become in recent years the object of a seemingly fathomless quest for the exotic. Film crews and tourists have taken the place of the old trading caravans that were required to pay a tribute to cross Maasailand.

All this may sound as if it's better to simply leave the camera gear at home, or at least forget about photographing people and stick to scenery and wildlife. For some visitors that might be the best advice. Others of us cannot accept such a fate, and in fact there should be few problems if you are discreet.

One of the difficulties in photographing people is simply being too conspicuous. When the camera comes out, everything stops. Hardly a way to get candid shots of life around you. There are a few tricks of the trade that can help. One is to use long telephoto lenses and photograph people only at a distance. It is also useful to use a waist-level viewfinder or a camera such as the Rolleiflex, so that you do not seem to be pointing the camera directly at someone. You may even want to invest in a special mirror attachment that makes it look as if you are photographing straight ahead while in fact you are photographing to the side. These techniques can help to give you more candid and realistic pictures.

The best technique, however, is simply to develop a sensitivity to the particular people you want to photograph and to the situation. Think in terms of"public" and "private" areas. In general, the more touristy a place, the more public it is, and the easier it is to take photographs without invading someone's privacy. Beyond the obvious tourist attractions, however, it is often difficult to determine which kind of area you're in. Restaurants, shops, and streets may seem to be public areas, but for photography they may not be. People are prepared for contact in such places and may readily accept you as an individual, but may not be prepared to be photographed. The more you learn about where and when you can use your camera without causing disruption, the more you learn about your host culture. Use your camera sparingly outside of tourist places, until it becomes clear that you are accepted. Usually it is important first to establish a base and get to know people personally.

Tour guides often play an important, and sometimes awkward, role in regard to photography. Professionally, they are obliged to please the tourists. But they may also have social obligations to communities that do not want to be photographed indiscriminately.

At the other extreme, you may be led into a situation in which you are expected to pay something in return for taking pictures. Avoid paying money. A much better form of payment is to give your subjects a photograph of themselves. A camera that delivers instant prints, such as a Polaroid, serves as a good rapport builder.

Gifts and Trips

Tips are expected in some situations, and in others they are not. Often the service charge is included in the hotel or restaurant bill. Check to make sure. Gratuities are an important source of income to driver-guides, who are generally underpaid for the responsibility they have. Tipping occupies a gray area in the value system of many East Africans. Some recognize that the waiter or driver-guide needs them to make a decent living. Others regard it as a nuisance, saying that it encourages service people to pay more attention to more affluent tourists than to locals. It is not something that is resented, but it sometimes crops up in the local "letters to the editor."

Customs, Courtesies, and Common Sense

Visiting: When visiting someone's home, you will be greeted warmly, then asked to sit down. There will be additional greetings, often by each member of the host family. Start conversations with small talk. East Africans appreciate humor and openness. Questions should be indirect and tactful, however; avoid being too inquisitive or blunt.

Always offer a seat to someone who is visiting you, whether in a public or private place. Before beginning a conversation with guests, it's polite to ask them if they would like something to drink.

Language: Learn proper forms of address and greeting. Avoid using the word"native," which in formerly colonial countries has a negative connotation. Use the words "African" or "Kenyan" or "Tanzanian" rather than "black," "colored," or "Negro."

Eating: It's not considered polite to eat while walking on the street, nor is it polite to eat in front of others without asking them to join you. In restaurants, getting a waiter's attention through eye contact rather than hand gestures is preferred. Waiters appreciate, and will probably give better service to, someone who gives them some friendly attention. Tips should be around 10 percent of the total bill.

Time: Time is loosely structured in East Africa. Don't expect meetings to start precisely on time. Being half an hour late is not considered unusual. Part of that is due to traditional attitudes, and part stems from the fact that transport and communication services are not as reliable in East Africa as they are in more developed countries, where"time is money." As in some other cultures, people in East Africa will say "tomorrow" without literally meaning it; they really mean "soon" or "as soon as possible." Expect to wait longer than usual for things, such as postal and banking services.

Gestures: To get someone's attention, don't motion with a single finger; use all your fingers while holding your hand palm down. A sincere smile is always welcome. Indicating a person's height is usually done with the hand pointed vertically rather than horizontally. Sometimes men who are friends walk hand in hand; this is done out of friendship and has no sexual meaning.

Traveling: Always carry small change. Bargain for city or water taxis, but not for other forms of transport. East Africans are hospitable, but there are people in any country who are ready to take advantage of strangers. Don't change money, for instance, with a person who promises a special rate; use only banks or hotels. Keep valuables out of view, and don't carry or leave them in accessible places, especially in crowds.

Dress and Personal Appearance: Suits should be worn by men for formal business meetings. When in any city, don't wear swimsuits anywhere but at the pool. Women should dress with some modesty in public. When traveling by local transport or visiting rural areas, dress conservatively but informally. Nude or topless sunbathing is not considered proper in East Africa.

Special thanks to Dave Blanton of Voyagers International for providing this material.

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