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GEAR
GORP Tested: Ice Axes
Hugh Banner Glacier
By Paul Cleveland

Hugh Banner

This model earned the moniker"Big Blue" because of its color and length, a whopping 75 cm in its shortest length. All the testers found the Glacier a good axe for long, low-angle routes because it was an ideal cane length, although Darin and Chris didn't like the way the wide adze dug into the side of their palms.

Because of its size, the wide adze was more effective chopping steps and bollards in soft snow than ice or hard snow. The pick tip has positive clearance, which is common on vertical-ice tools, but we all preferred picks with negative clearance for glacier and snow travel. Another detail, albeit cosmetic, was that the paint on the shaft flaked off like dandruff.

Weight (75 cm): 1 pound, 8 ounces
UIAA rating: B
Price: $72
Pro: Longer length suits it to long, low-angle routes.
Con: Overly wide adze and positive clearance pick.
Self-arrest: 3
Steep snow climbing: 4
Durability: 3.5
(Rating scale, 1  5: 1 = poor, 3 = average, 5 = excellent)
Comparative Ratings Chart

For more information: Adventure 16, (619) 283-6314

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Article and photo © Paul Cleveland, 2000.



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