This is the lightest axe in this test, and we were initially wary of it, believing that it wouldn't hold up to climbing and chopping as well as the beefier axes. But we were all surprised by its excellent performance. The slim, light shaft and comfortable head made probing and boot-axe belays a snap, and focused the weight in the head for a great swinging balance.

The forged steel head attracted rust, but this drawback was easy to overlook in light of the axe's other standout features. The Pamir is the best deal going when it comes to saving weight and cash without compromising function.

Weight (70 cm): 1 pound, 25 ounces
UIAA rating: T
Price: $68
Pro: Light, comfortable, and a good swinger.
Con: The forged steel head rusts.
Self-arrest: 4
Steep snow climbing: 4
Durability: 3.5
(Rating scale, 1  5: 1 = poor, 3 = average, 5 = excellent)
Comparative Ratings Chart

For more information: Climb High, (802) 985-5056