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GEAR
GORP Tested: Ice Axes
Tester's Top Picks
By Paul Cleveland
The axes that ended up at the top of our list were basic models that kept it simple, like the Grivel, Omega Pacific, and Black Diamond.
We all tended to shy away from rubber grips and leashes attached with a ring instead of just a tied length of webbing. Axes like Kong, Simond, and Camp finished lower because of the added features. Middle performers proved to be decent axes without any one thing that set them apart from the rest of the pack, er, picks.
| Rating The Ice Axes |
| Axe | Self-arrest | Steep climbing | Durability |
Black Diamond Arc Light, $80 | 3.5 | 4 | 4 |
| Camp Nuptse, $75 | 2.5 | 1 | 3 |
Charlet Moser Chardonnet, $80 | 3.5 | 4 | 4 |
| Grivel Pamir, $68 | 4 | 4 | 3.5 |
Hugh Banner Glacier, $72 | 3 | 4 | 3.5 |
Kong Bonati Raid, $55 | 2.5 | 1.5 | 2.5 |
| Lucky Mazama, $70 | 1.5 | 3.5 | 4 |
Omega Pacific Mountain Axe, $67 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
SMC Shuksan/ REI Mountain II, $75/$68 | 3.5 | 4 | 3.5 |
| Simond Fennec, $93 | 3.5 | 2 | 3.5 |
| Stubai Blue Star, $90 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 |
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Rating scale (1 5): 1 = poor, 3 = average, 5 = excellent
 Return to Top
Article and photos © Paul Cleveland, 2000.
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