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   Ice Axes
Black Diamond
Arc Light
Camp Nuptse
Charlet Moser Chardonnet
Grivel Pamir
Hugh Banner Glacier
Kong Bonaiti Raid
Lucky Mazama
OP Mountain Axe
SMC Shuksan/ REI Mountain II
Simond Fennec
Stubai Blue Star

Comparative Ratings

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The New Lightweight Climbing Gear
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GEAR
GORP Tested: Ice Axes
Tester's Top Picks
By Paul Cleveland

The axes that ended up at the top of our list were basic models that kept it simple, like the Grivel, Omega Pacific, and Black Diamond.

We all tended to shy away from rubber grips and leashes attached with a ring instead of just a tied length of webbing. Axes like Kong, Simond, and Camp finished lower because of the added features. Middle performers proved to be decent axes without any one thing that set them apart from the rest of the pack, er, picks.

Rating The Ice Axes
AxeSelf-arrestSteep climbingDurability
Black Diamond
Arc Light, $80
3.544
Camp Nuptse, $75 2.513
Charlet Moser
Chardonnet, $80
3.544
Grivel Pamir, $68 443.5
Hugh Banner
Glacier, $72
343.5
Kong Bonati
Raid, $55
2.51.52.5
Lucky Mazama, $70 1.53.54
Omega Pacific
Mountain Axe, $67
444
SMC Shuksan/
REI Mountain II, $75/$68
3.543.5
Simond Fennec, $93 3.523.5
Stubai Blue Star, $90 3.53.53.5

Rating scale (1  5): 1 = poor, 3 = average, 5 = excellent

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Article and photos © Paul Cleveland, 2000.



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