Climbing shoes, with sticky rubber soles, make it easier to stand on wafer thin edges. When you shop for shoes, remember that fit is all important. If a shoe is comfortable, you can climb all day with no discomfort. But ill-fitting shoes can cause hot spots, toe cramps and painful blisters, that can ruin an otherwise delightful day of climbing. Plan on spending from $89 to $150 for a pair of climbing shoes. Generally, shoes priced at $100 are considered "entry level," while the more expensive models incorporate the latest shoe technology for the upper limits of climbing difficulty.

Boreal Ace

Your best bet is to consider the new, all-purpose, high performance shoe that sell for about $110. These are truly the children of trickle down technology, since they incorporate last year's state- of-the-art features, such as sling shot rands, asymmetrical toes, and S-curve lacing. People looking for real bargains should peruse the sale wall at their local store. Shoe manufacturers are notorious for seasonal cosmetic changes--a change of color, different leather, or new laces. When these"new" shoes are introduced to the market, retailers discount their unsold inventories.

Before you buy a shoe, consider what type of climbing your future holds. If big walls and skin-eating cracks are on your dance card, buy a high top shoe with a stiff midsole to better protect your foot. Pick a shoe that allows your toes to lie nearly flat in the toe box. A good fitting trick is to try the shoe on with a thin sock. If you can slip the shoe on comfortably, then it is probably the right size for long, multi pitch routes and walkoffs. You should be able to lace the shoe up so it is quite snug around your foot, but still have the option of loosening the laces for a more relaxed fit.

If your cragging is primarily on gym walls, or single pitch sport routes, look for a shoe that curls your toes slightly, without crunching them. Slippers (climbing shoes with a very flexible sole) are great for small pockets and smearing. They also generally don't have laces, so they slip on and off easily between climbs. A lace up shoe will provide you with greater control for really difficult footwork, and will generally keep its shape better than a slipper.

Scarpa Inferno

If your climbing plans include everything from long, moderate cracks, to slabby boulders, to indoor gym climbing, you should look most closely at the all- around shoe category. These shoes have medium-stiff midsoles, low-cut ankles for maximum flexibility, and low profile toes appropriate for cracks and pockets.

The majority of climbing shoes are made of leather, which will stretch with wear. Expect leather shoes to stretch about one-half inch in size after a dozen times on the rock. If the shoe is lined, it shouldn't stretch, although it will conform to your foot shape with use. Climbers have been known to wet their shoes with water to expedite the"breaking in process." What works even better is the stretch spray sold at boot repair shops. Lined shoes should be bought to fit, like pre-washed Levi jeans. Synthetic shoes won't stretch at all. Buy these snug, but not painful, because the fit you have in the store is the one you'll have to live with.

When you buy shoes, don't pay much attention to the size on the box. Every shoe company sizes their shoes different, so don't get caught in the "I wear size 10" trap. Always try on several pair of different sizes and brands before you make a choice, since they are all sized and designed differently. And most of all, don't let anyone tell you to buy shoes tighter than you are comfortable with. Your feet don't need to hurt in order for you to climb well. In fact, just the opposite is true. Before you try on shoes, loosen the laces completely. Then snug them up to fit your foot. If you try on a shoe without lacing, or with too tight laces, you won't be able to accurately rate the fit.