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GEAR
Expeditionary Forces
Case Study #1: The Viesturs Gear Portfolio
By Ted Stedman
Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Jacket
Freezing drizzle, bone-chilling temperatures, buffeting winds, rocks like sandpaperthe Alchemy Jacket ($240) is what Viesturs wears when ugly conditions rear. "This is a soft shell that's windproof, water-resistant, and extremely durable," he says of the jacket's Polartec Power Shield and Gore WindStopper construction. "I've worn this through some tough conditions on Annapurna and Nanga Parbat, including climbs loaded with rock abrasion and numerous arm rappels. The fabric is unbelievably tough. Since it's both windproof and water-resistant, you can keep climbing in most conditions without having to add a shellit can handle almost anything." High praise indeed if you're after a shell to shoulder whatever beatings you throw its way. Contact 800-330-6800; www.mountainhardwear.com
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Mountain Hardwear EV 2 Tent
Above 20,000 feet, temperatures plunge to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit and 100-mph-plus jet stream winds can blow a tent into the next time zone. In these deadly conditions, Viesturs' shelter of choice is the EV 2 ($625), a single-wall, two-person model he helped design. "I used the EV 2 for the first time on my 2003 ascents of Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. It's very lightweight, yet extremely strong," he says of the four-pound, 14-ounce mountaineering tent. The trim footprint makes for easy placement on narrow ledges and snow platforms, and the waterproof-breathable fabric employs non-stretch seam panels for stability. "We used Spectra-reinforced fabric along the pole-clip seams for stiffness without any stretch of the fabric," he says of the military-inspired super-fabric. "And it has external poles and clipsthe beauty of this design is that one person can easily erect the tent in super-windy conditions." It goes up fast, has two windows for outside views, and the built-in vestibule adds a tremendous amount of internal storage space and room for cooking. Contact 800-330-6800; www.mountainhardwear.com
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JanSport Endeavor 8000 Pro Pack
Another Viesturs-inspired design, the Endeavor 8000 Pro ($280) is unquestionably the most technical, precisely engineered pack ever produced by JanSport. The challenge? To develop a bombproof, lightweight pack that could easily swallow lots of gear. "We wanted to make this pack simple, light, and big enough for monster loads," says Viesturs. "It has a good suspension combined with a basic sack design, without internal dividers, external pockets, unneeded zippers, and so forth. This keeps the pack light and easy to use." Lightweight, extremely durable Diamond Dyneema fabric cuts down on weight as well, plus the lidusing a five-point attachment design that clamps down oversized loadsconverts into a daypack for summit assaults. "We wanted a streamlined pack providing all the essentials without the frills. I've used this pack on several 8,000-meter peaks, and it's awesome." Contact 800-558-3600; www.jansport.com
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Brunton Optimus Crux Stove
To be at altitude without a stoveand a means to melt snow and ice for hydrationis a sentence to prolonged agony. A compact stove is a mountaineering essential, and Viesturs rates the Optimus Crux Stove ($75) for its reliability, no-fumble convenience, and flyweight. "It's a very compact 3.1-ounce stove that kicks out 12,000 BTUs of heat," he says. "It's basically a burner head that screws onto a propane/butane cartridge." Indeed, compactness and simmering ability make the Crux a standout among stoves. A collapsible control handle lets you adjust the flame from a safe distance, and pot supports fold out to make a stable no-spill cooking surface. Average burn time for each cartridge is a prodigious one hour. "It nestles in the concave cavity of the cartridge itself," Viesturs adds. "When weight is a factor, this is a great stove to have along." Contact 800-443-4871; www.brunton.com
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Princeton Tec Yukon HL LED Headlamp
In a routine as familiar as bivouacking, summit attempts usually get underway around 2 a.m., long before the sun's rays can loosen frozen rocks and snow slabs with deadly consequences. Reliable, bright illumination is key in those wee, small hours, and for this Viesturs swears by the Yukon HL LED Headlamp ($60), a product he also helped design. "This is a dual-light headlamp combining a focusing xenon light with three super-bright LEDs," he explains of the hybrid headlamp, one that can switch from short-range illumination to a high output rivaling incandescent halogen bulbs. "The LEDs can be used around camp for lots of light with very efficient use of battery power. The xenon bulb kicks out the big light for climbing and distance viewing in the dark." Using three AA-cell batteries (with lithium capability), the Yukon produces brighter, whiter light than most standard LEDs, and with a 10,000-hour bulb life and burn times ranging from 44 to 120 hours (based on desired output), the waterproof, impact-resistant Yukon is versatile and tough for when you're groping your way through the darkness. Contact 609-298-9331; www.princetontec.com
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Case Study #1: Viesturs' Recent Triumph
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