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DESTINATIONS
Shadow of Doubt
The Trip Home
By Michael Kennedy
More knee-deep snow awaited us on the descent across the summit plateau. We stomped out a sleeping platform and took advantage of the warm evening sun to rest and dry out. Cold twilight arrived three listless hours later, and Greg and I burrowed soundlessly into our bags. In the morning, four miles of Hunter's West Ridge and 6000 feet of relief still separated us from the Kahiltna Glacier airstrip, and we knew we'd have to motor to get off the mountain that day. The seven A.M. cold was like a razor, cutting to the bone. My feet stayed numb for five or six hours despite all my efforts to warm them. Worse, I was completely out of sorts, frightened of the crevasses and cornices and avalanches, and unsure of finding the proper way down. Greg took the lead, parting the snowy sea like an ice breaker.
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We each poked a leg through the snow and into crevasses several times, and were lucky not to do worse. By late afternoon we were rappelling the steep gully leading down into the northwest basin, a variation that avoids the bottom mile and a half (and some of the trickiest climbing) of the West Ridge.
Conditions were tropical. Wet, rotten snow sucked at our feet and huge seracs leered down at us from three sides. We ran down a huge pile of avalanche debris, rationalizing our folly by pretending that the most dangerous slopes had already gone. We scurried across football-sized fields of freshly fallen ice blocks, some the size of a refrigerator. In several places fresh slides had wiped out the tracks we were following, those of a Colorado foursome who had climbed the West Ridge several days before. For all its popularity as the"normal" route up Mount Hunter, the northwest basin was an incredibly dangerous place.
Two tiny figures had skied up to an abandoned camp near the bottom of the route a couple of hours earlier, then sat patiently waiting, no doubt getting a chuckle out of our antics. As we stumbled down the last hundred yards to the main glacier, they ran toward us, whooping and hollering. "Did ya get some?" grinned Scott, peering into our drawn faces. He and Marc took our packs and pressed cups of hot tea into our eager hands.
The tension of the past nine days gradually ebbed as we sat recounting our climb in the warm evening sun. Greg and I had found what we'd come to Alaska for: the Wall of Shadows was the hardest route we'd done in our combined half-century of climbing. I didn't want to let go so soon. But the intensity was gone, and the experience already fading into memory. And we'd made it home.
Summary of Statistics: AREA: Alaska Range
NEW ROUTE: Mount Hunter, 4441 meters, 14,470 feet, via "Wall of Shadows," left of the Moonflower Buttress route on the West Buttress; Rating Alaskan
Grade 6 AI 6+, 5.9, A4; May 25-June 2 (Greg Child, Michael Kennedy).
[Editor's Note: Two more routes have been climbed on the north face of Hunter. From July I to 7, 1980, Irishman Billy Ireland and Swede Ulf Bjornborg started up the left side of the avalanche cone on the right side of the face, surmounted two serac bands and traversed left to where all routes join on the northeast ridge. (See AAJ, 1981, page 156.) From June 24 to 29, 1984, Frenchmen Benolt Grison and Yves Tedeschi climbed a route up the couloir and face left of the Wall of Shadows. (AAJ, 1985, page 177.)]
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