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Wild and Slow

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic
By Mark Leger, GORP Editor

New York City: Hudson River
The edge of the known world?

Hudson RiverGORP's hometown seems to be in love with pavement. However slowly but surely, the Hudson is dissolving the heard hearts of Gotham, and we're opening our eyes to the possibilities of the river. Riverfront access to for walkers includes Battery Park City and Riverside Park, and plans are underway for a waterfront park near Greenwich Village. Out on the water, sea kayakers are becoming a more and more common sight. Even most New Yorkers don't realize that fifty years ago Manhattan was ringed by a network of boathouses. But the polluted state of the Hudson and closed-off access diminished smallcraft on the Hudson. Now that the river is cleaner and sea kayaking is gaining in popularity, a revival is underway. The Downtown Boathouse, which was a regular haunt of the late John F. Kennedy, Jr., is the epicenter of this revival. The boathouse is located at Pier 26 between Canal and Chambers Streets. In seasons past, the Downtown Boathouse has offered free sea kayaking lessons every Saturday and Sunday, which has got to be one of the best deals in town.

*Hudson River Valley

Boston, Massachusetts: Charles River
Reclaiming a river


Hudson RiverDuring the Industrial Revolution, Boston's Charles River was dammed for mills and filled for commercial and residential use. At low tide, the bays of the lower Charles became vast expanses of stinking, sewage-laden mudflats. Not until the end of the century did Boston citizens take the first steps to clean up the river and transform its shores. Regardless of the long road still ahead, area residents congregate on and along the Charles for all sorts of recreation. Walkers and joggers get exercise and a great view on the trails alongside the Charles. During warmer months on Sunday afternoons, a one-and-a-half-mile section of Memorial Drive (north of the Charles near Harvard University) is closed to car traffic; take a stroll, ride a bike, or strut your stuff on in-line skates.

For on-river activities, rent a canoe or kayak; experience a classic Charles pastime with a class on sculling or rowing. Each October, over 5,400 athletes come to compete in the Head of the Charles Regatta — the world's largest two-day rowing event. About 300,000 spectators watch the races, so arrive early to claim a good spot. If you really want to get your feet wet, people can and do swim in the Charles; however, the New England Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) gave the river's health a failing grade as recently as 1995. The EPA set a goal to make the Charles both swimmable and fishable by 2005.

*More on paddling the Charles River

Washington, D.C.: Potomac
Whitewater near the White House

The French have the baroque waterworks of Versailles: elaborate fountains splashing over bronze statues. The United States took an earthier route: We built our capital near some of the hairiest whitewater anywhere. Great Falls spills over from where the harder continental shelf meets the softer coastal plain. Result? Class VI whitewater that isn't runnable except by the most skilled kayaker. If you're looking for some recreation that leaves your hide and hair intact, the Potomac offers safer paddling possibilities. The folks behind the Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail are slowly but surely piecing together a route that explores the Potomac River basin. This scenic trail includes a water trail portion: a first for the system. Much of the trail is near or right outside of D.C., including the C&O; Canal tow path and Mount Vernon Trail.

*More on paddling the Potomac

Montreal, Quebec: St. Lawrence River
Raft to restaurant in a jiffy
Bridge in Montreal

The La Chine rapids are one of the reasons for the town's existence. Before a canal was dug, larger vessels were prevented from venturing any further, forcing the development of a port town for the fur trade. These days, Montreal is a favorite destination for people who want a taste of old-world French culture without having to shell out for trans-Atlantic airline tickets. Vieux-Montreal is charming, with enough grit to keep it from being cloying: and it's right on the river. The city has two major island parks: Parc Helene-de-Champlaine and Parc des Iles-de-Boucherville. Want to run the La Chine rapids? Well, you can book a raft trip that takes off from right in town. If you want a little more between you and the river than a thin sheet of rubber, book an excursion on a jet boat. Either way, you can step off the dock and be in a bustling bistro in no time flat.

*Rambling Around Montreal


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