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Concentrate on learning the screw roll, which is by far the most versatile roll for both sea kayaking and whitewater use. You'll find diagrams of the screw roll in virtually every kayaking book in print. One thing about the sequence will change for your practicing, however: the diagrams always show the paddler doing a complete 360-degree roll, but with a paddle float attached it's almost impossible to wrestle the paddle all the way under the kayak and up on the other side. Instead, capsize on the same side you want to roll up. Do everything else just as the diagram shows: Extend the floated paddle blade forward on the surface, then begin to sweep it back as you lift your torso toward the surface (wearing a PFD will help here, as will a diving mask so you can see clearly and not get water up your nose).

Just as your head breaks the surface, resist the natural urge to pull your torso the rest of the way out of the water, and instead give a strong flick with your hips to right the kayak. Then, with the final sweep of the paddle toward the stern of the boat, lift your torso upright, leaning back over the rear of the cockpit. In actual practice these steps should not be fragmented segments of an action, but a smooth, continuous movement.

Once you've mastered the sequence, remove the paddle float. Some people suggest slowly reducing the air pressure in the float (I used to, too), but I finally decided that the partially inflated float flopped around too much and actually hindered the process. Your next task will be to perfect planing the blade of the paddle just across the surface of the water, so it provides lift without sinking too much. It's not as precise as it sounds, and you'll gain a little more lift each time you try it.

Remember one thing: Rolling does not take a lot of strength; it takes technique. You'll be sore after your first practice sessions because you're using new muscle groups in weird ways, but that should diminish quickly.

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