Jonathan Hanson Jonathan Hanson Jonathan Hanson is a writer whose lifelong appreciation of nature shows up frequently in his work. Meet Jonathan Previous Answers

The question of protective clothing for canoeing and kayaking involves so many variables that it impossible to draw hard rules. I distrust charts that list"survival times" in different water temperatures. Sure, you might live for an hour floating in 40-degree water in light clothing, but I guarantee that for the last 45 minutes of that hour you will be entirely incapable of coherent thought and movement unless you are wearing clothing designed to prevent immersion hypothermia.

So . . . First, consider your situation. Water temperature, obviously. Will you be paddling a Class II river with a bank a short distance away, or making a three-mile crossing between islands in a sea kayak? Are you an expert at Eskimo rolling, in all conditions and with a loaded boat? Are you a big, husky male with a fair amount of body fat, or a 110-pound woman? Have you eaten within the last hour? What about sea conditions? Currents? You see what I mean. Just follow a simple rule: Dress for swimming. That way you're covered.

As to what type of clothing, there are three broad categories to consider: thermal stretch garments, wet suits, and dry suits. Thermal stretch garments — which vary, but generally include a layer of synthetic fleece next to the skin, with a stretchy outer layer of Lycra or a similar material, and sometimes a water-repellent finish or laminate — are wonderful for those times when the water is chilly — say between 55 and 65 degrees — and the air temperature is much warmer. In such conditions a wet suit can feel like Saran Wrap. The thermal stretch works much the same way a wet suit does, by partially trapping a layer of water next to the skin so it can warm. However, it breathes much better than neoprene.

To bump up the protection, move to a wet suit, which adds the insulation of the neoprene to the water layer. Buy a wet suit made for kayaking, not diving, as the latter are not designed with adequate arm movement. Wet suits are designated by their thickness in millimeters; most paddlers wear suits in the 1.5mm to 3mm range, although thicker ones are available. You can buy a shorty wetsuit, farmer john, or a full suit, depending on conditions. An additional advantage to a wet suit is that it adds buoyancy (but don't think of it as a substitute for your PFD).

The ultimate in protection is a dry suit, which completely isolates you from the water. Note that I said isolates, not insulates — you need a layer of insulation under the dry suit, usually synthetic fleece or pile, for it to be effective. The ne plus ultra of dry suits is one made with a Gore-Tex laminate which allows the suit to breathe slightly, reducing the sauna effect.

Don't neglect your head, through which a substantial portion of your total heat loss occurs. For really cold conditions you can wear a neoprene hood, which I find spectacularly uncomfortable. Otherwise a knit watch cap or something similar works just fine.

Last, but far from least, protect your hands and feet as well. Usually this means neoprene gloves and booties, which are excellent. Pogies — those mittens that fit over the paddle shaft and into which you slide your hands — are great, but you absolutely must wear gloves as well, since in an emergency you'll have to pull your hands free.

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